Darryl Keil Last Activity 2026-04-22 11:25 AM
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Tony - Memphis

 
Subject : Cutting Banding Pieces?
Posted : 2003-05-05 2:33 PM
Post #28887
I'm in the process of making my first tabletop. The field will be crotch mahogany surrounded by a small inlay, then a banding of satinwood. I'm cutting the satinwood down to get ready to tape it together. I made a jig out of mdf that clamps the veneer in place and allows me to run it across the router table with a straight cutting bit installed. That gives me a really nice edge that is all but invisible when joined with the next piece. But, I'm having trouble getting a cut square to the first cut. There are lots of places for error using my jig, so I was wondering what technique you use? Are there any tricks? One thing I tried last night was clamping the piece between two layers of mdf with a minimal amount of the veneer edge exposed, then running my block plane across it. I then took it out and checked for square and adjusted and hit it again and so on. Not a sexy technique being trial and error, but it got me to some pretty square edges. The "error" I'm describing is pretty small, but over the 17" width of the table made from approx. 6" pieces, it will show up. Anyway, any tips would be appreciated. I'm also trying to keep the pieces in order hoping to make the edge banding such that everything lines up and appears to roll over the corner. That might be tuff time its all over, but I'm shooting for it anyway. Can't hurt to try! Thanks for the help.Tony



 
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Darryl Keil

 
Subject : Cutting Banding Pieces?
Posted : 2003-05-05 6:00 PM
Post #28890 - In reply to #28887
Tony,I find its tough to get it perfect the way you are going about it. Try it this way. Lets say for example your short grain border is 1" wide. I would cut enough pieces to go around the top, but cut them 2" wide. Put them in a bundle and cut the 2" edge as square as you can. I do this on the disc of a belt/disc sander. Router is fine if thats what you have. I like the disc sander because its easy to adjust this "cut" visually. After this is done to satisfaction I tape all the pieces together. I dont worry if it doesnt come out in a perfect straight line because I trim the whole taped up strip in the router jig. Thats why I would make it 2" wide, it gives me plenty of extra to trim. This way I dont have to worry if that first cut isnt a perfect 90 degrees. It just has to be close. I hope this explaination makes sense.SincerelyDarryl Keil: I'm in the process of making my first tabletop. The field will be crotch mahogany surrounded by a small inlay, then a banding : of satinwood. I'm cutting the satinwood down to get ready to tape it together. I made a jig out of mdf that clamps the : veneer in place and allows me to run it across the router table with a straight cutting bit installed. That gives me a really : nice edge that is all but invisible when joined with the next piece. But, I'm having trouble getting a cut square to the first : cut. There are lots of places for error using my jig, so I was wondering what technique you use? Are there any tricks? One : thing I tried last night was clamping the piece between two layers of mdf with a minimal amount of the veneer edge exposed, : then running my block plane across it. I then took it out and checked for square and adjusted and hit it again and so on. : Not a sexy technique being trial and error, but it got me to some pretty square edges. The "error" I'm describing is pretty : small, but over the 17" width of the table made from approx. 6" pieces, it will show up. Anyway, any tips would be : appreciated. I'm also trying to keep the pieces in order hoping to make the edge banding such that everything lines up and : appears to roll over the corner. That might be tuff time its all over, but I'm shooting for it anyway. Can't hurt to try! Thanks : for the help.: Tony




 
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Tony - Memphis

 
Subject : Cutting Banding Pieces?
Posted : 2003-05-06 10:05 AM
Post #28891 - In reply to #28890
Yes, I understand your method. I wondered if that was another approach. I don't have a disk sander, but I am getting pretty close with router/block plane. I'll tape the pieces up and trim them as whole as you suggest. Thanks for the help! Any tips on cutting the piece of crotch for the field to get it reasonably square? Thanks,Tony: Tony,: I find its tough to get it perfect the way you are going about it. Try it this way. Lets say for example your short grain border is 1" wide. I would cut enough pieces to go around the top, but cut them 2" wide. Put them in a bundle and cut the 2" edge as square as you can. I do this on the disc of a belt/disc sander. Router is fine if thats what you have. I like the disc sander because its easy to adjust this "cut" visually. After this is done to satisfaction I tape all the pieces together. I dont worry if it doesnt come out in a perfect straight line because I trim the whole taped up strip in the router jig. Thats why I would make it 2" wide, it gives me plenty of extra to trim. This way I dont have to worry if that first cut isnt a perfect 90 degrees. It just has to be close. I hope this explaination makes sense.: Sincerely: Darryl Keil: : I'm in the process of making my first tabletop. The field will be crotch mahogany surrounded by a small inlay, then a banding : : of satinwood. I'm cutting the satinwood down to get ready to tape it together. I made a jig out of mdf that clamps the : : veneer in place and allows me to run it across the router table with a straight cutting bit installed. That gives me a really : : nice edge that is all but invisible when joined with the next piece. But, I'm having trouble getting a cut square to the first : : cut. There are lots of places for error using my jig, so I was wondering what technique you use? Are there any tricks? One : : thing I tried last night was clamping the piece between two layers of mdf with a minimal amount of the veneer edge exposed, : : then running my block plane across it. I then took it out and checked for square and adjusted and hit it again and so on. : : Not a sexy technique being trial and error, but it got me to some pretty square edges. The "error" I'm describing is pretty : : small, but over the 17" width of the table made from approx. 6" pieces, it will show up. Anyway, any tips would be : : appreciated. I'm also trying to keep the pieces in order hoping to make the edge banding such that everything lines up and : : appears to roll over the corner. That might be tuff time its all over, but I'm shooting for it anyway. Can't hurt to try! Thanks : : for the help.: : Tony




 
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Darryl Keil

 
Subject : Cutting Banding Pieces?
Posted : 2003-05-06 7:17 PM
Post #28892 - In reply to #28891
Tony,Clamp the crotch between two boards of the same size and flush trim with a router. Remove and re-apply the clamps as you go around.SincerelyDarryl Keil: Yes, I understand your method. I wondered if that was another approach. I don't have a disk sander, but I am getting pretty close with router/block plane. I'll tape the pieces up and trim them as whole as you suggest. Thanks for the help! : Any tips on cutting the piece of crotch for the field to get it reasonably square? : Thanks,: Tony: : Tony,: : I find its tough to get it perfect the way you are going about it. Try it this way. Lets say for example your short grain border is 1" wide. I would cut enough pieces to go around the top, but cut them 2" wide. Put them in a bundle and cut the 2" edge as square as you can. I do this on the disc of a belt/disc sander. Router is fine if thats what you have. I like the disc sander because its easy to adjust this "cut" visually. After this is done to satisfaction I tape all the pieces together. I dont worry if it doesnt come out in a perfect straight line because I trim the whole taped up strip in the router jig. Thats why I would make it 2" wide, it gives me plenty of extra to trim. This way I dont have to worry if that first cut isnt a perfect 90 degrees. It just has to be close. I hope this explaination makes sense.: : Sincerely: : Darryl Keil: : : I'm in the process of making my first tabletop. The field will be crotch mahogany surrounded by a small inlay, then a banding : : : of satinwood. I'm cutting the satinwood down to get ready to tape it together. I made a jig out of mdf that clamps the : : : veneer in place and allows me to run it across the router table with a straight cutting bit installed. That gives me a really : : : nice edge that is all but invisible when joined with the next piece. But, I'm having trouble getting a cut square to the first : : : cut. There are lots of places for error using my jig, so I was wondering what technique you use? Are there any tricks? One : : : thing I tried last night was clamping the piece between two layers of mdf with a minimal amount of the veneer edge exposed, : : : then running my block plane across it. I then took it out and checked for square and adjusted and hit it again and so on. : : : Not a sexy technique being trial and error, but it got me to some pretty square edges. The "error" I'm describing is pretty : : : small, but over the 17" width of the table made from approx. 6" pieces, it will show up. Anyway, any tips would be : : : appreciated. I'm also trying to keep the pieces in order hoping to make the edge banding such that everything lines up and : : : appears to roll over the corner. That might be tuff time its all over, but I'm shooting for it anyway. Can't hurt to try! Thanks : : : for the help.: : : Tony
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