Darryl Keil Last Activity 2024-10-10 3:42 PM
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SteveA

Posts: 2

Joined: 2017-03-11
Location: Boonton, NJ

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Subject : curved panels
Posted : 2017-03-12 9:29 AM
Post #37577

Hi.(I'm very sorry for the length of this question, but this is the only place I can think of where a question like this might be asked with the hope of getting a response from someone with experience.)I've veneered a lot of flat panels, but no curved panels. So this question is about curved panels.I have to make a small curved door which will have a final thickness of approximately 1/2". The radius of the curve is about 4-1/2" - fairly tight - so I'll use 3 pieces of 1/8" poplar bending ply interleaved with 2 pieces of cross grain veneer. My question is really about the show veneer on the inside surface. BTW, the show veneer is a mottled sapele.I have the form built but I haven't done the core yet. If I'm going to press the core first, and then do the show veneer surfaces in a second pressing, it seems to me that what I SHOULD do when pressing the core is add a thickness of thin cardboard - the same thickness as the final show veneer - onto the form before pressing the core so that when I use the same form (without the extra cardboard) to press the show veneers the core will wind up having the correct inside radius. If I don't do that then the inside radius of the core will be flexed slightly when I press the show veneer. But the problem is I never hear anyone talking about taking this extra step so I must be misjudging something.One of the reasons I bring this up is that I read an article in Fine Woodworking #210 written by Michael Fortune. In it he writes "The show veneers must be applied in two steps. The outside curve can be done using the form, but the inside curve might not match the form perfectly. Any gaps between the inside curve and the form will leave bubbles between the panel core and show veneer."His concern about this leads him to pressing the inside veneer without the form (nor a platen) - concave surface of the curved panel UP - with a piece of evacunet, a flexible caul, and a small wood block to connect to the air hose. His words - "Fortunately, the core is strong enough to hold its shape under the pressure." Is his a "better" method for ensuring that the inside veneer conforms correctly to the inside curve of the form? Is my concern about the inside radius accuracy of the form appropriate, or will the "flex" of the panel core be so slight as to be insignificant?I really hope this makes sense to someone here who has experience with veneering curved panels and is willing to comment on my confusion.Thanks for any responses. <<Sorry for the way this is formatted. I can't seem to make any paragraphs no matter how much I edit this...>>


 
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Darryl Keil

Posts: 1453

Joined: 2003-05-22
Location: Maine

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Subject : RE: curved panels
Posted : 2017-03-12 10:26 AM
Post #37578 - In reply to #37577

Yes, I understand your concern about getting good bonding with the veneer against the form. I have always pressed this veneer on the form and not had trouble. There are two things I do to make sure I don't have issues. One, I make sure my form is good and stout so there is no flex in it. I put ribs every 6" on center with two layers of 3/8" bending ply on top. Anything less that the 3/8" material flexes to much. 1/8" bending ply is not acceptable for the form. Two, I make marks on the form when I take out the glued up curved panel so when I put it back on for the show veneer its in the exact same location. This way the form and panel mate perfectly.

The last thing you can do, which I like, is make a two ply. The beauty of a two ply is it will span potential bonding issues between the curved panel and two ply. A single veneer needs to make perfect contact to bond properly. A two ply can compensate for imperfection and still have no issues with the face veneer because its already bonded to the backer veneer. I think of two ply similar to the stiffness of plastic laminate, it cant wrinkle, bubble or crack.

The other reason I like to make a two ply for curved work is I can sand the two ply in the flat after pressing it and then put it on the curved panel. I find sanding veneer once in a curve, especially inside radiuses to be a real pain.

Without a doubt pressing the inside radius veneer with no form and evacunet as the platen is a sure bet but I have never found it necessary, but that's just my preference. Obviously Michael Fortune is an amazingly talented furniture maker that veneers way more than I do anymore. We all have our methods we prefer.


 
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SteveA

Posts: 2

Joined: 2017-03-11
Location: Boonton, NJ

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Subject : RE: curved panels
Posted : 2017-03-12 12:22 PM
Post #37579 - In reply to #37578

Thank you very much for the quick and informative response. The form I've made is very strong and I was planning on making some two ply for the show veneers. I will make those marks you mention. And I have two doors to make, so I might try both methods. Thanks again.


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