Darryl Keil Last Activity 2024-10-10 3:42 PM
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Don Stephan

Posts: 825

Joined: 2003-07-18
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio

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Subject : Veneer Failure
Posted : 2016-06-05 10:37 AM
Post #37496

Haven't been able to inspect yet, but have been told table top I applied new veneer to last winter has bubbles everywhere.

It was a mahogany veneered top that had been painted at some time in past. Neighbor with decades of furniture repair/refinishing experience was asked to strip the paint and stain and finish the top. After stripping he found mahogany veneer that had been sanded through in places. He bought raw walnut veneer and asked me to apply.

Had to trim out the oval/arch in the middle of each leaf, then flatten the rift cut strip from each side. Flattened using the same formula I've used for years, clamped and dried in vacuum bag as I've done many times. Taped the leaves together as always, glued to one piece of the table top (two ends, one or two leaves) at a time with heavy canvas over plastic film over the veneer (in case sanded top wasn't perfectly flat). Top caul over the canvas. Workshop temp kept to 74 degrees throughout the process, plus heating blanket on top for good measure. Fresh urea formaldehyde glue that was first used for test pressing of excess from the same veneer on MDF the day before. Constant good vacuum 22-25" each pressing.

For each pressing, some excess glue in zip lock bag to confirm glue rubbery before vacuum bag opened. Let the table top piece dry overnight, then after scuff sanding used sponge to wet surface of the veneer and remove the remainder of the paper tape. No bubbles formed while wetting the freshly glued veneer.

After all the pieces were done, the repairer/refinisher finish sanded, stained, and finished with nitrocellulose lacquer as he has for decades.

Table owner called the repairer/refinisher last week, so the bubbles may have just shown. It has been averaging 70-80 here for a couple weeks, and there's been some rain several days each week, but the condo likely climate controlled every day so internal humidity likely pretty constant.

The small test panel I made first still looks fine, but it was not stained and finished.

At first I thought had to be silicone contamination on the existing mahogany veneer after the paint was removed, but don't know if that would affect urea formaldehyde adhesion. This weekend I started to wonder how flat the tabletop pieces were when brought to me - they had not been wide belt sanded flat, and I did not think to try to check with long straightedge.

The repairer/refinisher wants to sand off the new veneer and re-veneer, rather than starting with a new core.

Any thoughts on what might cause the lack of adhesion?


 
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Darryl Keil

Posts: 1453

Joined: 2003-05-22
Location: Maine

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Subject : RE: Veneer Failure
Posted : 2016-06-14 3:37 PM
Post #37497 - In reply to #37496

A little late on the response Don, but have you tried wiping the sample with water? This would show if the veneer was glued well enough as the water will try to swell the veneer. Be generous with the glue. Was the sample glued up at the same time as the table?


 
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Don Stephan

Posts: 825

Joined: 2003-07-18
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio

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Subject : RE: Veneer Failure
Posted : 2016-06-14 6:33 PM
Post #37498 - In reply to #37497

The sample was glued a couple days before starting with the table top pieces. Water was used generously when working the paper tape off. The sample still looks fine, good suggestion to wet it well again and see if bubbles now.

My understanding is the table is old, the top originally was stained mahogany veneer, at some point painted. It's always possible a furniture finish with silicone could have been used at some time in the past. Any idea if silicone residue could interfere with urea formaldehyde bonding?

We are to pick up the tabletop tomorrow and Jim plans to slice some bubbles lengthwise and inspect under the veneer.


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