Darryl Keil Last Activity 2025-09-09 11:09 AM
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WilliamBalz

Posts: 12

Joined: 2008-02-19

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Subject : Veneering a serpentine front drawer that requires dovetails
Posted : 2008-02-20 8:33 AM
Post #34396

It seems the only way to control for wood movement when veneering (with crotch mahog in a perpendicular grain pattern) a bow-front or serpentine front drawer would be to use 1/8" bending poplar as a substrate. Is this the case? (no pun intended)

If you used a flitch, you would still subject the veneer to too much stress wouldn't you? (Unless you used a horizontal crotch grain orientation to match the grain of the flitch). Thoughts?

Finally, to receive the dovetail pins on the drawer sides, would it be advised to add pre-shaped hard-wood ends (say 1" wide) to the drawers (splined or biscuited into the plywood)? Or is the plywood strong enough to handle dovetails? (the plywood in the demi-lune aprons I have done with bending poplar feel too soft to take the serious abuse like that subjected to a drawer)

Thanks for any guidance.



 
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WilliamBalz

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Joined: 2008-02-19

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Subject : RE: Veneering a serpentine front drawer that requires dovetails
Posted : 2008-02-22 11:35 AM
Post #34399 - In reply to #34396

I have been thinking about this and it seems the best method might be to vacuum press the serpentine lamination with 1/8" bending poplar and veneer both sides with crossbanded veneers.

Then glue an edge band around the perimeter to hide the plywood.

Then cut dovetail pins in drawer sides.

The plywood may not be as strong as a hardwood flitch, but the flipside is that the crotch mahog veneers won't get torn apart by wood movement.

Thoughts?


 
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Darryl Keil

Posts: 1455

Joined: 2003-05-22
Location: Maine

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Subject : RE: Veneering a serpentine front drawer that requires dovetails
Posted : 2008-02-22 1:28 PM
Post #34400 - In reply to #34399

William,

Here's an option to consider

Sandwich a piece of hardwood in between the front and back pieces of 1/8" bending poplar. If your drawer front is about 3/4" then the solid hardwood would be about 1/2" x whatever deep you decide. This nicely "locks" this block between the two outer bending ply's and eliminates any possibility of telegraphing through to the face veneer later. Its not quite as much solid wood as if you added the block on afterwards but dovetails are usually back from the front surface about 1/8" anyway so you're really only dovetail through one layer of bending ply at the back.

Darryl


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