Darryl Keil Last Activity 2025-09-09 11:09 AM
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Dean Graber

Posts: 11

Joined: 2003-11-25
Location: Wisonsin

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Subject : veneer countertops
Posted : 2007-01-24 9:04 AM
Post #33561

OK, here's one for you. I am in the planning for a kitchen for a client. Small, kitch. husband and wife no kids. one fair sized top and several small tops. She uses big cutting board, so tops don't get too much use. They like the idea of a unique looking top/s out of veneer! My initial thoughts are:

tortion box 1/4" top/bott mdf with corrugated in between.

solid edges

unibond, of course, with any seams and/edging done w/epoxy.

conv.varnish finish.

solid mdf in sink area, after cutout, epoxy raw edges and silicone sink in place.

am I missing anything???? anyone done this with sucess??? Thanks much. Dean



 
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Gordon

Posts: 3

Joined: 2007-01-31

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Subject : pressing formica
Posted : 2007-01-31 5:49 PM
Post #33572

I need to make a countertop using formica type plastic laminate. I would like to use my vacuum press. Any suggestions for technique? What type of glue would be best?
Thanks, Gordon


 
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craig tufankjian

Posts: 308

Joined: 2004-02-01
Location: syracuse ny 13208

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Subject : RE: veneer countertops
Posted : 2007-01-31 8:05 PM
Post #33574 - In reply to #33561

dean,


try a product called "superply". its produced by roseburg plywood. its an ac plywood with dynea glue instead of urea resin. i can safley say it will outlast the house you install it in. when i worked for an old employer we had the luxury of buying products used at the company. i bought a new truck, it came with a bed liner which i didnt want to get scratched, i bought a sheet of superply to put in the bed, two trucks later it still in in tact with not a spot of delamnation or swelling. i've never had a cap on my truck so its been rained on snowed on , ran thru the car wash and sun baked.

the company used it specificly for high moisture areas like commercial countertops. the surface is sanded so there are no waves or bumps.

i would definetly two ply your lay-ups. stay away from conversion varnish. try a product called poulane by sherwin williams. i'm currently doing a 38 foot commercial bar top, the top has extensive veneer work on the top, my first choice was poulane, but after some research i decided to use ppg clear coat. high solid content, and so easy to apply "a caveman can do it". the gloss will burn your retinas out. ive done veneerd counter tops with conversion varnish, sorry i did. there is not enough build up to protect the veneer below it something gets dropped on it. if the finish gets penetrated and you have either medex, mdf, underneath, your in trouble. medex is moisture resistant, not waterproof. its not used to make exterior signage, hdo(high densisty overlay) is the product used to make exterior signs.marine plywood should have no voids what so ever.

craig


 
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Anton Gerner

Posts: 45

Joined: 2003-09-04
Location: Melbourne, Australia

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Subject : RE: veneer countertops
Posted : 2007-01-24 3:18 PM
Post #33566 - In reply to #33570

It will all work as you have suggested for sure.

My only problem is that no how carefull you are, eventually some water will get into the MDF and it will swell.

I would consider using marine grade plywood.


 
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craig tufankjian

Posts: 308

Joined: 2004-02-01
Location: syracuse ny 13208

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Subject : RE: veneer countertops
Posted : 2007-01-31 8:15 PM
Post #33575 - In reply to #33561

dean,

sorry, its "polane" high solids clear coat.


 
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Brian Gray

Posts: 339

Joined: 2004-01-21
Location: Sandusky, OH

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Subject : RE: veneer countertops
Posted : 2007-01-24 10:40 AM
Post #33562 - In reply to #33566

I went through the planning process of doing kitchen coutertops out of veneer, but it never materialized.

My planning was basically identical to yours, so I think that you've got the bases covered.

My only comments
- why a torsion box? I assume that your counters will be 1 1/2" thick. For a countertop, I don't really mind the beefiness of solid mdf, and the extra weight will keep it anchored perhaps a little better when someone bumps into it. Other than the weight helping if it gets bumped, I don't really have any major problem with a torsion box, except that it's extra work that I personally would rather not bother with.
- I would also make sure that your finish is nice and thick, but it sounds like you already have this planned. Over time, you might need to return to sand or polish scratches out of the surface, and I would leave plenty of room to sand. You don't want to have to remove the counters to refinish and build up more thicknesss.
- Stress to the client that these counters are not meant to have food cut on them, and scratches will show. So it might mean a little more maintenance than melamine, laminate, or solid surface.
- Obviously, use a backer.

The only other important aspect that I had in my planning was to make sure that all edges and surfaces are waterproofed with epoxy or silicon, especially around the sink, but you've got that covered too...

I say green light.

If you don't mind, post pics of the completed project...would love to see it since my similar project never happened.


 
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Dean Graber

Posts: 11

Joined: 2003-11-25
Location: Wisonsin

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Subject : RE: veneer countertops
Posted : 2007-01-24 4:54 PM
Post #33567 - In reply to #33571

Yes I thought about that too , although the ply I have seen has many surface voids and even like baltic birch, has ripples that would affect the finished product. Does anyone make a water "resistant" MDF???


 
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Brian Gray

Posts: 339

Joined: 2004-01-21
Location: Sandusky, OH

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Subject : RE: veneer countertops
Posted : 2007-01-24 11:03 PM
Post #33568 - In reply to #33572

//Does anyone make a water "resistant" MDF???//

Yes. They go by two names...

Medex, and Extira.

If I'm not mistaken, they are the exact same product, just named differently by different suppliers. Their primary use is for outdoor signs. When studying marquetry with Paul Schurch, he taught us to use Medex as our substrates for marquetry. I can't get Medex in my area, so I use Extira as my marquetry substrates...it works very well, and I've never had water problems with them. I'm not sure, however how it would fare in an application such as a substrate meant to be right next to a sink, or right over a steamy dishwasher, for that matter.

I would google those two names, and research a little more into it for your application. I think that either Medex or Extira would work if they are completely sealed up, but don't rule out the marine grade plywood idea so quickly...

...if the marine grade plywood that you are seeing has surface voids and ripples, then you're not seeing the same stuff that I have seen. Check with another supplier, or insist quality from your supplier. The marine grade plywood that I've seen and worked with have several plys and is pretty flawless...and the price reflects that quality!

Please report back to us...I'd like to know how you go about this, as I might tackle something similar.


 
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Dean Graber

Posts: 11

Joined: 2003-11-25
Location: Wisonsin

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Subject : RE: veneer countertops
Posted : 2007-01-24 2:58 PM
Post #33565 - In reply to #33567

Thanks Brian, I was thinking torsion box as the main top is a bit of a L with an additional piece added (kind of big) and I'd like to do in one piece. Sounds like it all will work OK. Would you double up on veneer? just for safety sake? Dean


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