Darryl Keil Last Activity 2025-09-09 11:09 AM
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Paula

Posts: 37

Joined: 2004-05-22

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Subject : Questions from a new veneer-er
Posted : 2004-05-22 11:21 AM
Post #31545

I'm new to veneering. I'm setting up and practicing, with an eye to eventually being able to veneer a dining room table top. I have a few questions I was hoping you might help me with.

1. Can anyone give me a pointer to information on how/whether there are special finishing issues for veneers and the glues that I'm using?

2. When I get to doing a table top, I'm looking at taping several pieces of veneer together. That's going to make quite a job to turn over this big, fragile piece to lay it on top of the substrate and keep it intact. Any suggestions?

3. I've got two books that give me the exact opposite advice about gluing the top and bottom veneer. One says that both veneers have to be glued on to a panel at the same time or it will warp, but the other suggests that you do one at a time so it's more workable. What's been the experience out there?

Thanks for your help.




 
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Darryl Keil

Posts: 1455

Joined: 2003-05-22
Location: Maine

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Subject : RE: Questions from a new veneer-er
Posted : 2004-05-23 8:26 PM
Post #31551 - In reply to #31545

Paula,

As far as finishing issues, I recommend a "film" finish like laquer or polyurethane rather than an rub on oil finish. Commercially cut veneer needs more protection than an oil finish provides.

For gluing up a table top, try it this way. Place your veneer on top of your cover sheet, roll the glue on the substrate, then flip it over onto your veneer. Slide it into the bag just like that. You could also masking tape your veneer to the cover sheet very close to the edges and then flip the cover sheet over on top of the glue prepared panel.

On your third question, I prefer to glue both sides at once for the most stable panel. If there is no way to do both sides together then I will veneer in two seperate pressings, but always do the second one immediately after taking the panel out from the fist pressing. If you use a slow setting glue there is rarely a situation where you cant do both sides together.

Sincerely
Darryl Keil


 
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Derwood7

 
Subject : RE: Questions from a new veneer-er
Posted : 2004-05-24 12:03 AM
Post #31552 - In reply to #31545

Paula,
I'll give you my best answers to your questions.
As far as I'm concerned, the same finishing techniques that are good for solid wood also apply equally here. This is just thin wood and it'll take a finish just the same. Just don't sand through!
Many would argue with me on this one, but I have used Titebond wood glue for decades on veneer with no failures to date(knock on wood). The most difficult thing about gluing is getting the right amount on, and doing it quickly enough so it doesn't set before you get the project in the press. Use regular Titebond, not Titebond II, it sets up too fast. I've found that for most veneers, a 1/16"x1/16" trowel works perfectly, as far as leaving the right amount of glue on the substrate.
I just laid up three 3'x8' panels, each consisting of over 110 pieces of veneer each, with the help of my wife and son, and we easily managed a gentle flip of the taped up sheet without any problem. With good technique and tape, all should stay together without any fuss. It also may be easier in many situations to lay the substrate on the veneer instead of the other way around. Just lay some masking tape on all edges, leaving about 2" extend beyond the veneer and then turn it over and lay it on a surface so that the face of the veneer is down and the extended pieces of tape are looking at you, sticky side up. Lay the glued up substrate on the veneer and fasten the tape over the (now top) of the substrate. Put the assembly in the press, face side down, protect your edges with some cardboard scrap and close it up. The next morning, you're done.
As far as gluing both sides goes, if you're making up something that won't have all four edges supported by a frame, such as a cabinet door, by all means, do both sides. You can use an inferior veneer on the backside if it'll never show. If you're building something such as a box(EG, a loudspeaker) there's really no need to veneer both sides, but it might make it easier to work with before the final product is glued up. After the one side is glued and out of the press, the substrate may warp, making it a bit more difficult to get into it's final position, so I do both sides on larger projects, anyway. If your one sided piece is warping on you, it's an easy matter to veneer the other side afterward and put it back in the press. The press will bring the warp out and it'll stay that way after it comes out. So, in my opinion, both of your sources are right.


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