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Darryl Keil
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Dear Chris,Here is a couple of suggestions that may help.First, I always put down masking tape to define the edge of the glue line, this should make things more even. Second, if you are concerned about the glue migrating to the edge, put the masking tape around 3/4" back. This way the glue should never move more than that. I general I find the glue does not move forward more than 1/8", so you should be totally safe. I use a little compressed air to drive the second glue application to the first glue joint. Also, dont forget to remove the masking tape before pressing the first time. I say this because I did once, that was the end of that table top.Good luck ChrisSincerelyDarryl Keil: Dear Darryl & Co;: I have a challenging situation . AS in your video I have to : do the "Flat" of the top first "Face-down" without TOO much : glue on the flat first and apply judiciously so I don't get : glue on the facet edge bevel on a curved piece . THEN come back : and glue flipped up-side to glue the "Facet bevel edge" .: THE challenge I am finding is getting the right amount of : glue to wetout & mate the two surfaces successfully without : getting the ocassional too much areas .: ANY tips ? I'm appliing the unibond to the MDF substrate : only .: Maybe I should be masking and reducing the glue at edge ? : I'm afraid of those dreaded dry (glue-starved spots ) .: Thanks : Cool site excellent Forum !!: Chris In P
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