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Darryl Keil
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Dear Lee,Plastic resin glue will probably fill in small voids in the burl and I usually consider that goodsince I let the plastic resin be the filler, it is similar in color to walnut burl and if you want youcan tint the glue with water soluble analine dyes to get it even closer.Never apply the glue to both surfaces, only to the substrate.Always put the veneer tape on the face side, you want the glue to saturate the veneer jointand tape on the underside would eventually allow the veneer to bubble up over time. You will always get bleed thru when veneering, as long as you scrap and sand all of it off downto clean wood you will not have a problem.SincerelyDarryl Keil: Well, I finally caved in and bought a press. It's great fun and I'm : sure it's going to change the way I build and design my furniture. : The job that persuaded me to make the purchase is a coffee table.: The table top is a parquetry pattern with walnut burl in the center : and, surrounding this burl, a sunburst pattern of rift red oak : radiating to the edge. I'm familiar with everything but the effect : of the vacuum on the glue. Normally I'd fill the voids in the burl : with burn-in sticks prior to finishing.: Here's the question; Will the glue, plastic resin, fill these voids : making it difficult to fill with the sticks or will the glue stay put : on the substrate as long as I don't apply too much? All the voids : are small and just what you'd expect from a tight burl.: Do I need to apply glue to both surfaces? The substrate is 3 lams of : 1/2" Baltic birch and I'll smooth sand the Baltic just prior to : veneering.: One other question. I bought the veneer tape and I'm wondering if it : would be best to apply it to the underside to prevent glue migration : to the surface. Will the moisture from the glue ruin the tape's : effect? : I've noticed a few familiar names here, "Hi" to all.: Lee
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