Darryl Keil Last Activity 2026-01-12 8:29 AM
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Art Frank

 
Subject : Frank Jointing shop-sawn veneer
Posted : 1999-09-07 9:18 PM
Post #30224
I've tried Jointing 3/32 veneers 4-5" wide & up to 5' long on a table saw outfitted with a convex sanding disc with mixed results. Tried running veneers back to back over a jointer - taking as little as a few thousandths off, but there's usually a gap somewhere along the joint line that won't squeeze together invisibly( I edge-join the slices between two straighedges and use hardwood wedges to squeeze them together) Finally, I've tried sanding the veneer edges with sandpaper adhered to a jointed 3"x3"x3' block of maple in a shooting board set up. This not only takes forever - it also dosen't yield the results i'm looking for. Do you know of a better way? Thanks, Art



 
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Frank Pollaro

 
Subject : Frank Jointing shop-sawn veneer
Posted : 1999-09-08 6:02 PM
Post #30226 - In reply to #30224
Art,Try making a long sled for your table saw, pinching the veneer between the top and bottomof the sled and run it through the saw with a fine saw blade, like a 80 tooth blade. The otherpossibility is to sandwich your veneer between two boards and run a router down the edgeusing a flush trim bit. Have the veneer sticking out just a wisker, like 1/32" to prevent chipping.Also, you can run the router backwards, called climb cutting for a chip free cut. Frank: I've tried Jointing 3/32 veneers 4-5" wide & up to 5' long on a table : saw outfitted with a convex sanding disc with mixed results. Tried : running veneers back to back over a jointer - taking as little as a : few thousandths off, but there's usually a gap somewhere along the : joint line that won't squeeze together invisibly( I edge-join the : slices between two straighedges and use hardwood wedges to squeeze : them together) Finally, I've tried sanding the veneer edges with : sandpaper adhered to a jointed 3"x3"x3' block of maple in a shooting : board set up. This not only takes forever - it also dosen't yield the : results i'm looking for. Do you know of a better way? : Thanks, Art




 
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Ron

 
Subject : Frank Jointing shop-sawn veneer
Posted : 1999-09-18 10:19 PM
Post #30231 - In reply to #30226
I am no expert but I have had good luck with the two board idea. I purchased a piece of heavy aluminum angle. On one of the boards I routed a rabbit as deep and as wide as the aluminum angle. I then drilled and countersunk holes to set the screw heads just shy of the angle and attached the angle in place on the board. This board with the angle becomes the bottom of the "clamp". Veneer to be trimmed is then put on this board and the other board is placed on top and the whole thing gets clamped together. I have learned the clamps need to be about 2 feet apart. I then mount a flush trimming bit with bearing in a router and adjust the bit to ride the bearing on the angle in the bottom board. The bit will tear out any veneer that extends more than 1/2 the bit diameter but I find taking 1/32 bites works best even if it takes longer. I use at least 3 c clamps on my "clamp" and rout to the clamps, then losten one at a time to re-route where the c clamp was so the veneer will not move as the other c clamps hold it in place.: Try making a long sled for your table saw, pinching the veneer between the top and bottom: of the sled and run it through the saw with a fine saw blade, like a 80 tooth blade. The other: possibility is to sandwich your veneer between two boards and run a router down the edge: using a flush trim bit. Have the veneer sticking out just a wisker, like 1/32" to prevent chipping.: Also, you can run the router backwards, called climb cutting for a chip free cut. : : Frank: : I've tried Jointing 3/32 veneers 4-5" wide & up to 5' long on a table : : saw outfitted with a convex sanding disc with mixed results. Tried : : running veneers back to back over a jointer - taking as little as a : : few thousandths off, but there's usually a gap somewhere along the : : joint line that won't squeeze together invisibly( I edge-join the : : slices between two straighedges and use hardwood wedges to squeeze : : them together) Finally, I've tried sanding the veneer edges with : : sandpaper adhered to a jointed 3"x3"x3' block of maple in a shooting : : board set up. This not only takes forever - it also dosen't yield the : : results i'm looking for. Do you know of a better way? : : Thanks, Art
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