Gary McD
Posts: 6
Joined: 2009-06-08
Location: Jacksonville, FL
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Rob, you gotta be kidding, this is Festool, they aren't going to include accessories when they can sell you some later  I love their stuff and use it daily, that's why I'm broke. But seriously, you could always just use a couple C-clamps at the ends of the rail if there is enough clearance for you to make the cut somewhere in between. Their clamps are worthwhile getting eventually, especially if you cut slick stuff like melamine or formica. I think the saw comes with the fine blade #491-952 which should give good results since it is new and super sharp, but as Paul said, test it on some scraps. Take a look at the blade for Aluminum/plastic and the one for solid surface/laminate. Both of these have a less agressive hook angle and are less likely to tear out on something thin. If you sometimes cut aluminum or plexi, it would be worth the steep price for that blade, as you will get good veneer cuts as well, just make the cut slowly and be sure your saw depth setting is just enough to go thru the material and groove the sacrificial cardboard (or whatever) maybe 1/16 inch. I don't know if you noticed my advice about overlapping 2 sheets of veneer and making the cut at the overlap? That is a good place to use some blue tape to keep everything lined up, just don't stick it down too hard or you might pull up some wood when you go to peel it off. Hope this helps, like Paul said, practice is key. Did I understand correctly that you haven't used the saw yet? If not, remember to make a "dummy" cut the entire length of the rail to shave off the edge of the rubber strip and then you will have the true edge to set on your hash marks and the saw will cut exactly there. After a few months, the rubber gets beat up enough to need replacing or you can just peel it up and restick with some two sided tape, move it out a little and do a fresh "dummy" cut and it will be like new.
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