Darryl Keil Last Activity 2025-09-09 11:09 AM
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Howard

Posts: 24

Joined: 2007-01-15

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Subject : Seams Showing
Posted : 2007-01-21 10:56 PM
Post #33555

I have had no problems with seams showing when working with darker woods such as walnut, rosewood, teak etc but when I join light colored wood such as maple I do not get good results. The seam is slightly visible after sanding but when I finish (oil or shellac) the seam becomes a fine dark line.

I have been using a variety of cutting methods, veneer saw, router and table saw and also tried sanding the edges with fine (400 grit) sandpaper. The joints are taped using masking tape temporarily on one side to pull the edges together and then veneer tape on the other side.

Any ideas?

Thanks

Howard



 
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Darryl Keil

Posts: 1455

Joined: 2003-05-22
Location: Maine

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Subject : RE: Seams Showing
Posted : 2007-01-22 8:11 PM
Post #33557 - In reply to #33556

Howard,

What are you using for glue and do you put it on the substrate, veneer, or both?

Sincerely
Darryl Keil




 
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Howard

Posts: 24

Joined: 2007-01-15

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Subject : Seams Showing
Posted : 2007-01-23 8:53 PM
Post #33560 - In reply to #33558

Darryl

I did a couple of pressing using Titebond veneer glue. Just put the glue on the substrate. One pressing was in a vacuum bag and the other using clamps. The veneer is a light tan burl.

The glue line is almost completely invisible after sanding but becomes very visible as an extremely thin line after finishing with oil or shellac. I can send you a sample if you think it would help?

Am I am expecting too much to get an obscure glue line with a light burl?

Howard



 
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Scott

Posts: 31

Joined: 2006-08-23
Location: New Hampshire

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Subject : RE: Seams Showing
Posted : 2007-01-24 12:04 PM
Post #33564 - In reply to #33568

I agree with Brian. Why would you put a water based glue on veneer? That will only make the veneer expand when in contact with the glue and shrink when it dries. Remember water bases glues creep so the shrinking veneer will overcome the hold of the glue. Use a veneer glue. Nothing beats unibond 800 for veneering in my experience. When I have used water based glues I have shrinkage and expansion problems. Scott


 
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Brian Gray

Posts: 339

Joined: 2004-01-21
Location: Sandusky, OH

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Subject : RE: Seams Showing
Posted : 2007-01-24 11:16 AM
Post #33563 - In reply to #33565

I think that Darryl is on the right track with your adhesive choice.

When you say Titebond Veneer glue, I assume you mean Titebond Cold Press glue, right?

Personally, I've never used Titebond Cold Press, but my best guess is that you will have better luck with Unibond, or another urea resin.

Even though Titebond Cold Press is intended for veneering, keep in mind that it's still a PVA glue. Those glues tend to shrink a bit more in the curing process than urea resins, plastic resins, or epoxies. This shrinking could pull your joints apart slightly.

I would get some Unibond, and press another panel with veneer from the same flitch, same procedure, same size and see how it works. Keep in mind that I'm just speculating here...please report back...I'd like to know if your adhesive choice is indeed the issue.

The only other thing that I can think of, is when you tape your joint, make sure the you are really stretching that tape tight horizontally across the joint. And make sure that if you are taping the seam both horizontally and vertically, do the horizontal taping first, then the vertical taping.



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