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Darryl Keil
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: Hello Darryl,: I am working on my first veneer project and ran into two glitches. I was book matching two pieces of quilted maple using a jig : similar to the one in your video. I used a 3 flute 1/2 trimming bit and found the edges to be slightly rough. Do I need to use : a spiral upcut bit for these highly figured veneers? I also found these veneers to be slightly buckled but not too buckled to : prevent me from joining them with veneer tape. Later when I attemted flatten them, they cracked a bit. Can I use a Dear Richard,I dont think the spiral bit will make much of a difference but since I have not tried one its worth a try. When you climb cut there is often a bit of fuzz. I deal with this by running the router the regular way after climb cutting and then using a block of wood with sandpaper on it before taking the veneer out of the jig.About your flattening and cracking problem, be sure to always flatten your veneer before cutting and taping it. From what you said it appeared that you flattened it afterwards. Once the veneer tape is on it is next to impossible to flatten again without loosening the veneer tape. Even if you dont affect the tape I would be concerned about what may happen to your seams. Bottom line, all flattening and drying of the veneer must be done before you cut and tape the veneer together.SincerelyDarryl Keil: flattenning solution now, or is it too late since I already joined them with veneer tape? I was thinking of applying the : flattening solution every except on the veneer tape. I also read about using a soluting of 95% water to 5% glycerin for : flattening mildly buckled veneer. What is you opinion of this glycerin/water solution?: PS: Thanks for all you help.
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