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Darryl Keil
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Dear Paul,All this concern you read on this forum around stability and substrate choices ispartly related to the size of the panel being pressed. When you get down to the size panelyou are talking about these concerns are not so important or at least the results of yourchoices will not show up much.Yes, your parquetry would best be layed up on plywood but if the effect you want wouldbe achieved on solid I would go right ahead. Even what you do or dont put on the back isnot that critical. I know that I am always harping on these points you raise but your panelis just not that big to be concerned about the movement issues. I would still use a Ureaglue though.SincerelyDarryl Keil: I have made some Beech and Andiroba parquetry I want to use on drawer : fronts and I am confused about a couple of things. The drawer fronts : need to be dovetailed to the sides, so I guess this means using a : solid substrate. The drawer fronts are 14" x 3 1/2" and will be : ****beaded.: Elsewhere in this forum it is suggested that you not use a ply of : veneer but rather just align the grain with the grain on the solid : substrate under these conditions. But, this is rather impossible : with the many different pieces that make-up the parquetry. So, in : this case would you use a ply of veneer to isolate the parquetry from : movement? Would birch ply be a better substrate? (I imagine it : could hold dovetails? ): And, with or without the veneer ply would you veneer the backs also?: I know from your video that as a rule you do not need to veneer backs : if the veneer was a ply. I like the idea of the ply, because I think : this would make the parquetry panels easier to work with (align and : trim).: Do I even need to be worried about movement in parquetry, or does the : fact that it is made up of small pieces eliminate cause for concern? : I thought it might make matters worse, substrate movement could : separate the parquetry, but maybe I'm thinking about this wrong.: Thanks,: Paul
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