| | |
Darryl Keil
|
Dear Russell,For optimal stability I would still apply a backer sheet to the other side. I understand about the veneers stability but the glue does shrink some which pulls on the side you have veneered. Veneering both sides stabilizes this and provides equal moisture penetration resistance as well. Its not to say your panels will warp badly if you dont, because they wont, its just a matter of what degree is acceptable to you. Try a panel one sided and wait a few days, you will know if its good enough or not.SincerelyDarryl Keil: Thanks Darryl- Perhaps I should call you- I'm using your 5x10 table, : the pump set on high/auto recycle, and the veneer comes 4x8 w/one : bookmatched seam @the center. Its really beautiful, and its purchased : as a "paper backed veneer" with a layer of foil sandwiched in- : veneer,paper,foil,paper. I test my glue adhesion by pulling on any : overhang after pressing (usually overnight) and consider it a good : bond if the veneer- paperbacked or otherwise, "breaks" once it is at : the substrate- This foiled stuff can literally peel off between the : foil and its glued paper back. That was one problem. The other was : air bubbles formed on another sheet- only this time it was between : the outside layer of foil and the paper. I am told by a chemist that : the Unibond 800 is not the problem- it dries too quickly to cause : delamination of the product, and the Japanese manufacturer agreed. : But the chemist did say that with the foil, a balancing backer sheet : on the substrate would not be required, as the veneers' movement is : restricted to the foil, and not beyond. So in an architectural : application, (paneled wall for instance) the back side of a substrate : need not be laminated. Any thoughts? or does this not fall into the : Forums format? : Thanks- Hey to Anne n Dan: Russell
|
|
