Darryl Keil Last Activity 2026-04-30 11:46 AM
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Syd Hawkins

 
Subject : Burl conference table
Posted : 2002-10-12 10:13 PM
Post #29468

I'm currently researching a project. My clients have purchased a used mahogany framed conference table with leather inserts which need replacing. They want to retain the mahogany frame, refinish it, and replace the leather with burl inserts (species TBA). The 8 inserts would be diamond matched, each about 3' x 7' in size. Each insert would have a flush mounted panel with soss hinges that would swing up to reveal A/V ports (for laptops and such.) Having the diamond matches pre-laid up on sheet goods is not an option. The panel matching is such that I feel I need to do the matching myself.I have never worked on such a large scale with burls before, and don't want to waste tons of materials on mistakes. I have a vacuum press to laminate the burls and sub-veneers onto my substrate.Your input would be appreciated in helping me decide what kind of crossbanding, substrate, etc. is needed to keep the top stable and check-free. I am considering having my veneer supplier laying up the sheets in the flitch on a cross-grain backer veneer. I would then press that on a 20-mil paper backer over 1/2" MDF over 20-mil paper over rotary cut backer. Does that sound right, or would you do it a different way?Also, do you see any problems in cutting out the little hatches and edgebanding them before veneering the tops?Any other ideas or things to keep in mind? Thanks,Syd



 
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Darryl Keil

 
Subject : Burl conference table
Posted : 2002-10-13 6:47 PM
Post #29472 - In reply to #29468

Syd,You have one hell of a big confrence table if there are 8 - 3'x7'panels. Anyway, if you plan on having someone else lay up you burl on a cross band backer you dont need anything else underneath, glue that right to your MDF substrate. To me 1/2" sounds a little thin for such large panels. You can press your burl directly to the MDF directly with no cross banding for that matter and still have stable veneer as long as you veneer the back side as well. I have done it this way many a time with fine success. Veneering your edges before you press the panel is fine but I prefer to lay up the panel, cut it to size and then veneer the edges. If you use veneer for edging it really doesnt show from the top. Hope this helpsSincerelyDarryl Keil: I'm currently researching a project. My clients have purchased a : used mahogany framed conference table with leather inserts which need : replacing. They want to retain the mahogany frame, refinish it, and : replace the leather with burl inserts (species TBA). The 8 inserts : would be diamond matched, each about 3' x 7' in size. Each insert : would have a flush mounted panel with soss hinges that would swing up : to reveal A/V ports (for laptops and such.) Having the diamond : matches pre-laid up on sheet goods is not an option. The panel : matching is such that I feel I need to do the matching myself.: I have never worked on such a large scale with burls before, and : don't want to waste tons of materials on mistakes. I have a vacuum : press to laminate the burls and sub-veneers onto my substrate.: Your input would be appreciated in helping me decide what kind of : crossbanding, substrate, etc. is needed to keep the top stable and : check-free. I am considering having my veneer supplier laying up the : sheets in the flitch on a cross-grain backer veneer. I would then : press that on a 20-mil paper backer over 1/2" MDF over 20-mil paper : over rotary cut backer. Does that sound right, or would you do it a : different way?: Also, do you see any problems in cutting out the little hatches and : edgebanding them before veneering the tops?: Any other ideas or things to keep in mind?: : Thanks,: Syd




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