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Darryl Keil
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Dear Sam,There are three things that come to mind. First, be sure to stay away from white or yellow glue's, you need more rigidity than these glues offer. Urea resin glue will give you the most rigid glue line. Second, keep your resawn veneers as thin as possible, 1/16" would be ideal. You can always glue it down thicker and then have your panel run through a wide belt sander to bring the thickness down. The thicker you veneer is the more power it has to move in spite of the glue line. Third, you can brush a coat of thin epoxy on your veneer after it has been pressed and sanded which will really help to seal the cell structure of the veneer. The epoxy will saturate in well and when it dries you can sand the surface back down to bare wood and then apply your finish. You could also apply enough epoxy for it to be the base coat of your finish and not sand it all the way back down to the bare wood. Be aware that epoxy does not sand easily. I have found the brand MAS seems to sand the best.SincerelyDarryl Keil: What extra precautions are useful in veneering crotches and highly : figured woods. Much of what makes this material so beautiful is a : result of the stresses grown into the tree resulting in reaction and : tension wood. Often times one area of wood is being glued down long : grain while immediately adjacent there is an area of end grain. The : result is a high percentage of cracks appearing after a few weeks. : My question is, how can one effectively eliminate the stresses : contained in these beautiful but squirrelly woods?: Please keep in mind I'm using shop sawn veneers, I'm conditioning the : materials to 6% MC, the difficulty I've experienced has happened : using polyurethane glues and aliphatic resin(yellow glue): All advice will be appreciated.
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