Darryl Keil Last Activity 2025-09-09 11:09 AM
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adam e

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Subject : veneer cracking, 10mil paper back on mdf
Posted : 2012-10-01 12:41 PM
Post #36755

(Correct images now attached)
I did a large (appx 42 x 108) dining table of book-matched quarter-sliced heavily figured sycamore veneer (10 mil paper-back) about three years ago.

The substrate is 3/4 mdf and the backer veneer is maple. The perimeter is nosed with appx .875 x 2.5 inch solid maple which is veneered (match to top). I used Unibond 800 and a vac bag. The piece incorporates a metal base and is affixed below on a welded frame of stout angle stock which is perfectly flat. The top itself is still perfectly flat.

The piece is finished on all faces and edges with 5-6 wet mils Sherwin-Williams T67F6 Fast Dry Vinyl Sealer catalyzed as per manufacturer's instructions, sanded to 320, and 5-6 wet mils S-W T77 F63 Acrylic Conversion Coating, catalyzed as per manufacturer's instructions.

About a month ago the top developed a number of fine cracks on the long axis. The table has not been exposed to water or extraordinary moisture conditions. The finish, except for where the cracks have compromised it, seems perfectly sound.

The client says the cracks seem to be increasing and growing. They are distributed throughout the top, although primarily along one end. The cracks are raised, and through a loupe, it appears that they could be between the veneer and the paper back, although it is hard to be sure. The cracks are raised (can be clearly felt with a hand).

What is happening here and what can be done? Could the failure really be between the veneer and the paper? See attached pix, and please help
Attached file : IMG_2858.jpg (40KB - 129 downloads)
Attached file : IMG_2869.jpg (48KB - 87 downloads)
Attached file : IMG_2859.jpg (44KB - 82 downloads)
Attached file : IMG_2873.jpg (41KB - 81 downloads)



 
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Don Stephan

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Subject : RE: veneer cracking, 10mil paper back on mdf
Posted : 2012-10-01 6:50 PM
Post #36756 - In reply to #36755

Not familiar with solvent based catalyzed finishes, so can't suggest what might be causing splits in it. By chance, has there been a change in cleaning contractors or cleaning products used on the table? How much water is the table normally exposed to after meals (cleanup) and if the table is left dry for a week or two, do the cracks lay back down? Is the veneer loose at the splits?


 
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adam e

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Subject : RE: veneer cracking, 10mil paper back on mdf
Posted : 2012-10-01 9:54 PM
Post #36759 - In reply to #36756

Thanks for the response Don.
The clients only clean the table with a dry or slightly damp cloth, as I instructed them.
They cover it with a pad and cloth when they eat there, and take care not to let liquid sit...
The veneer isn't loose at the splits.
Baffled.


 
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Don Stephan

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Subject : RE: veneer cracking, 10mil paper back on mdf
Posted : 2012-10-02 11:40 AM
Post #36760 - In reply to #36759

Another question that might help the experts identify the problem - are there original areas of cracks with no lifting, and did they notice the cracks before there was any lifting? Do the areas of cracking correspond somehow to the alignment of the supporting steel frame?

It would seem there either has to be adhesion failure allowing the veneer to lift, in which case it would be possible to depress the veneer at the cracks, or the substrate has swollen in an extremely controlled fashion to push up the veneer just along the cracks (seems less likely). Something has to be producing the increased height of the surface of the veneer.

The only two possibilities I can imagine are that either first the finish is cracking and then the veneer is lifting for some reason, or first the veneer is lifting which is causing the finish to cracking. You might locate a tech expert with the finish manufacturer and explore this.

If there hasn't been any change in liquids exposed to the table, or application methods, perhaps there has been a change in the pad (chemical decomposition or offgassing) that either was sudden, or cumulative until it affected the tabletop.

With which components of table do you have prior experience individually and in combination - substrate, adhesive, veneer, sealer, finish - without problems?


 
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adam e

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Subject : RE: veneer cracking, 10mil paper back on mdf
Posted : 2012-10-02 4:35 PM
Post #36763 - In reply to #36760

Thanks Don.

I will go back and see if there are any areas where the finish is cracked without there being any damage to the veneer (yet...). I hadn't thought of that.

The cracking does not correspond to anything in the layout of the frame.

The glue was fresh and has been sound for nearly three years, and I approached this the same way I have always done veneer work re: mix, vac draw, etc. Failure there seems highly unlikely.

It would seem that the veneer has either taken on moisture, split and curled away, detached from the paper or been affected by substrate movement, or some combination of the above. All I know is that movement can be ruled out--table is veneered all surfaces and is still flat.

Yeah, I will inquire about the pad.

I have experience and (until now) comfort with all the elements and combinations of them that you listed. No prior problems at all. The only unfamiliar part of this is the sycamore, with which I had never worked.

Thoughts?


 
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Darryl Keil

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Subject : RE: veneer cracking, 10mil paper back on mdf
Posted : 2012-10-02 1:53 PM
Post #36761 - In reply to #36755

Adam,

From what I can see the problem is between the paper and the veneer. I have seen this a number of times before where the paper/veneer bond has these fizzures. Where did you get the paper backed product?

Darryl Keil


 
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adam e

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Subject : RE: veneer cracking, 10mil paper back on mdf
Posted : 2012-10-02 4:24 PM
Post #36762 - In reply to #36761

Thanks Darryl.
Got the veneer from Formwood. I've worked with them in the past and they have been great. Can you tell me more about your experience and also how I might proceed. Is it possible that the product is defective?


 
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Darryl Keil

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Subject : RE: veneer cracking, 10mil paper back on mdf
Posted : 2012-10-04 2:58 PM
Post #36764 - In reply to #36762

I talk with a lot of customers and every now and then I hear about this particular problem which almost always is with paperbacked veneer. So I know it can be an occasional problem.

From what I understand, paperbacked veneer uses a heat activated acrylic glue, at least thats what I was told. Obviously this is better than contact cement, but considering how flexible paperbacked veneer is, the glue line has to be fairly flexible as well. I wonder about this some times.

I suggest talking with Peter at Oakwood veneer. They specialize in paperbacked veneer and I'm sure he is a wealth of information on the subject. He may have more specific information for you. Just to a search online for them, they have a website.


 
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Don Stephan

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Subject : RE: veneer cracking, 10mil paper back on mdf
Posted : 2012-10-15 6:58 PM
Post #36765 - In reply to #36755

Adam:

Any update on the problem and your research?

Curious minds lurking everywhere


 
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adam e

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Subject : RE: veneer cracking, 10mil paper back on mdf
Posted : 2012-10-18 8:37 AM
Post #36766 - In reply to #36765

Hi Don,
Lurking curious minds should never be left hanging.
Here is my correspondence with Jay White at Oakwood.
Thoughts on moving forward?


Jay,
I have a problem with a veneered table I did about three years ago. I have been doing vacuum-bag veneering for over ten years and it is something I've never experienced. Darryl at Vac-u-Press suggested I talk to you.
Rather than re-explaining the situation I am attaching the link to the V-u-P forum where I posted the problem and got some feedback. I am at a loss as to what caused the problem and what to do about it.
When you get a moment, please take a look and let me know what you think.
Thank you very much,
Adam Eisman

There are a couple of issues that can better shed light onto what is possibly going on here. Acer species like Maple and Sycamore have a tendency to move at a much greater rate with changes in humidity and temperature than most all other species, surface failures like this are clearly the result of movement in the veneer. The way we know this is the cracks and ridging are linear with the grain. If it were a bonding issue of the veneer to the paper, the result would be more in the order of bubbles both linear and perpendicular with the grain, lifting the veneer face off the paper. What actually is happening is the veneer is expanding and contracting faster then the finish can, and before you know it, a failure of the finish itself. Also if it were a bond issue it would have shown up much sooner, generally as soon as the finish cured after application. The fact that it has gone through basically 6 heating and cooling cycles then failed is another indicator of the finish finally giving up. If it were caught sooner it could have been possible to sand and refinish before tearing occurred. We have found over the years that finishing veneered surfaces is not a one size fits all situation when it comes to selecting finishes. We have also found with Maple/Sycamore a 2 part polyurethane tolerate changes in environment much better than conversion finishes. The other side of this is the environment itself and the importance of maintaining temperate conditions. While it is difficult to explain to our clients, they must understand that what there are getting in the way of furniture, cabinets, panels ect are alive, alive in the sense that they will react with their environment, and if shifts in climate are not kept within reasonable percentages of change, failure is imminent. I am attaching a copy of the AWI info sheet regarding temperature and humidity and its effect on millwork.

I hope you find this information helpful.

Jay White
Oakwood Veneer Co.

Jay,
Thank you so much for your in-depth response.
A question that comes to mind though is this: would not the fact of the veneer being quarter-sliced be relevant? Virtually all of the movement would be radial as opposed to tangential, which would mean that a differential movement condition between the wood and the paper would not exist.
I just don't know, and of course am extremely uncomfortable taking any step to remedy the problem.
I can't even figure what the next step would be.
Thanks again,
Adam Eisman

Jay,
To clarify:
As radial movement (opposed to tangential) is negligible, movement of the quarter-slice across the paper would be too.
I know you know this, I just want to assure you I understand the issues around movement.
Thanks again,
AE
Conventional wisdom in understanding how wood moves makes that true however were talking about a very thin material that is moving laterally, if this were flat cut the linear cracks would be 100 times worse.

Jay, Don Stephan at the Vac-u-press forum asked where things stand with the table. Are you ok with my posting this exchange in that thread? It is helpful stuff for anyone, and I'm still trying to determine what the next step is.
Thanks,
Adam

Hi Adam,
Sure, I see no reason not to share this. The one other addition I would add is that its not that certain finishes are "not" appropriate or "bad" products its that there are conditions that exist that can compromise even the best materials given the number of pieces of the puzzle that exist when dealing with wood and wood veneering. Many things have to be taken into account, and as fabricators we sometimes have to juggle our techniques to try to cover all bases. Because this is clear coated you might be able to sand this out and re shoot it. It all depends on what you find after sanding of course. The trick obviously is to avoid sand throughs.

Jay




 
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Earl

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Subject : RE: veneer cracking, 10mil paper back on mdf
Posted : 2012-10-18 9:59 AM
Post #36767 - In reply to #36766

Adam,from your original post you stated you laid on 5-6 wet mills of sealer and the same of topcoat. Am I interpreting this correctly that you only sprayed 2 coats of finish total? Unless the finish, which I'm not familiar with, had a very high solids content you were only applying 3-4 mills cured finish on your table top. That is a very thin finish coat for a dining table top.I think you have several issues going on and your only solution is to make another top and I would use raw veneer versus paper back.

Myself I would use conversion varnish or better yet 2pk poly( which can go up to 10-12 dry mills, translation 20-30 wet mills).

Oh, and just so you know that top is Bookmatched not slip. The dark light alternating going across the table gives it away.


 
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Earl

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Subject : RE: veneer cracking, 10mil paper back on mdf
Posted : 2012-10-18 10:20 AM
Post #36768 - In reply to #36767

Adam, as an edit to my post I would like to add that it may be possible to "fix" the top without remaking it. Depending on how bad the checking is. Macassar Ebony is bad about developing checks/cracks with age. I've been able to correct these pieces with "super glue" and more finish. It's not easy but may be worth a try. You don't have to strip it down to bare wood, but it does take time and a lot of careful sanding.


 
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adam e

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Subject : RE: veneer cracking, 10mil paper back on mdf
Posted : 2012-10-24 7:03 AM
Post #36771 - In reply to #36768

Thanks Earl.I am leaning toward attempting to flatten the ridges--sand and/or scrape--and fill and recoat. But why do you prefer a raw veneer over the paperback? The top is appx 4' x 10'.


 
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Don Stephan

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Subject : RE: veneer cracking, 10mil paper back on mdf
Posted : 2012-10-19 7:45 AM
Post #36770 - In reply to #36766

Adam:

Thanks for taking the time to update us - very interesting.

A couple comments. From what I've read, wood moves much more tangentially than radially, but it does move radially with humidity change. I've never seen a finish claim it is impervious to moisture, and I'm curious why 2 part poly was suggested to be a better finish choice for paperback veneer than conversion or for that matter any other finish. Is it supposed to be more flexible, so it could stretch and compress with movement of the sycamore veneer? The layer of veneer on paperback is so extremely thin, I wouldn't have expected it to be able to generate enough force to overcome the resistance to movement created by the glue bond and phenolic paper backing, especially since you used a urea formaldehyde glue between the paperback veneer and MDF substrate.

If you haven't yet, I'd certainly suggest a detailed conversation with the manufacturer of the paperback you used, AFTER a careful (probably destructive) examination of the failures. Where exactly did the failure occur - between the veneer and phenolic paper backing, within the phenolic paper, or between the phenolic paper and the urea formaldehyde. With the site of failure confirmed, if it was within the paperback is this still a product one would want to use?

Sorry you have had to go through this, I hope the customer appreciates all the research you are putting into the situation.

Don Stephan


 
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adam e

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Subject : RE: veneer cracking, 10mil paper back on mdf
Posted : 2012-10-24 7:15 AM
Post #36772 - In reply to #36770

Hi Don,
I am going to look at table again, stop avoiding that "destructive examination" and contact Formwood to see what I can learn. Hopefully some very light cuts with a razor will be informative.I'm leaning toward trying to fill, sand/scrape, re-coat.
As far as using the veneer product again, at this point the very idea of a re-do seems crazy, as honestly, I still cannot say with confidence what should be done differently. And it is a big, tricky top.
I appreciate your help.


 
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mikemcnerney

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Subject : RE: veneer cracking, 10mil paper back on mdf
Posted : 2012-10-18 11:26 AM
Post #36769 - In reply to #36755

Adam,
I think you should put this problem out to either the homestead finishing forum or the target forum. And if possible get a response or even talk to Jeff Jewitt. Rebuilding it would be a huge loss but if it was my problem I would consider paying a repair guy 2 to 500 bucks. Only if he could tell you how good it will be. If the issues keep expanding then you may have to rebuild. It might be worth finding a local guitar builder who knows now to do drop fils and 'almost ivisible' repairs.
good luck
Mike


 
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adam e

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Subject : RE: veneer cracking, 10mil paper back on mdf
Posted : 2012-10-24 7:23 AM
Post #36773 - In reply to #36769

Thanks Mike.
I am headed toward sand/scrape, fill, re-coat, But will bring this to the forums you mention. Yess, Jeff Jewitt would be a good one and I'll try. I'd pay the right person 2 to 500 in a heartbeat. Guitar builder is a good idea that I hadn't thought of--I will ask around today.


 
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Jeff Patrick


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Subject : RE: veneer cracking, 10mil paper back on mdf
Posted : 2012-10-25 10:31 AM
Post #36774 - In reply to #36773

I'm wondering if you have any leftover veneer from the project. If so, you might check it to see if it has developed the same cracking. I would certainly examine any scrap for veneer/paper failure.

As to the specific nature of English Sycamore veneer: I have used this species quite a bit in flitch form. I don't recall ever seeing the sort of failure that you report.


 
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adam e

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Subject : RE: veneer cracking, 10mil paper back on mdf
Posted : 2012-10-26 7:48 AM
Post #36775 - In reply to #36774

I may. Good idea. Thanks.


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