Darryl Keil Last Activity 2025-02-12 2:48 PM
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Dave in Texas

Posts: 16

Joined: 2003-11-06
Location: Central Texas

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Subject : Veneer cutter
Posted : 2005-05-12 1:20 PM
Post #32191
Daryl-

Does the veneer cutter you sell work really good ?

I build alot of Mission style furniture and use quite a bit of QS white oak veneer but cannot get a clean cut. I use a veneer saw and then try to flush up the edges with a couple of boards clamped together and then a flush trim spiral bit, but its very time consuming and I still end up with a ugly joint.

Thanks

Dave



 
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jkh

Posts: 5

Joined: 2005-05-13
Location: Bozeman, MT

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Subject : RE: Veneer cutter
Posted : 2005-05-13 1:11 AM
Post #32196 - In reply to #32191
I use the sandwich, too, but I snap a fresh 2 degree bevel (jointer) on the boards (Hickory)each time I use and thus back-bevel the veneer with a "micron" clad sanding block made of corian. makes pretty clean splices, but I'm in search of better ways... Can someone explain the process of "stitching"


 
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Brian Gray

Posts: 339

Joined: 2004-01-21
Location: Sandusky, OH

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Subject : RE: Veneer cutter
Posted : 2005-05-13 7:13 AM
Post #32198 - In reply to #32191
I think that the cheapest method is to properly sharpen a veneer saw with a nice edge guide.

You can see how here...

http://www.schurchwoodwork.com/tools/index.html#nine
(Scroll down to the diagram of the veneer saw.)

You can also buy Paul Schurch's video to learn more about sharpening a veneer saw.

When using a veneer saw or knife of any kind...if you are using brittle veneers, be sure to lay down some masking tape or gum tape on the cut line...it helps to control tear out. If it is a really bad case, tape both sides.

Another method which I love (and this might sound nuts at first) is the Festool Circular Saw with the edge guide.

I swear that this is the best and quickest method that I've found, without getting into industial guillotines, etc.... The edge guide has a rubber mat that provides zero clearance. I've cut the gnarliest burl in any direction, or the most fragile veneer cross grain with no tearout at all. I can also do many veneers at once in a stack with the Festool.

Some people may have to see this to believe it (I did), but I swear it works better and quicker than router jigs, and I never tape the fragile veneers. Another bonus...it's a very nice precision circular saw for it's typical non-veneer applications....

bg


 
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Dave in Texas

Posts: 16

Joined: 2003-11-06
Location: Central Texas

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Subject : RE: Veneer cutter
Posted : 2005-05-13 4:27 PM
Post #32201 - In reply to #32198
Brian-
I have tried using my Fein Multimaster with the hss round saw blade and it works great on most all veneers, with the exception of white oak, specifically qtr sawn white oak.
I am still searching for a better method.

Dave



 
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Brian Gray

Posts: 339

Joined: 2004-01-21
Location: Sandusky, OH

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Subject : RE: Veneer cutter
Posted : 2005-05-14 8:03 AM
Post #32202 - In reply to #32201
A lot of people here have built jigs to hold the fein multimaster. I have never tried one or seen one in action, so I don't have any experience with both.

Darryl has emailed a lot of us pictures of his jig, and it looks fantastic.

Darryl - have you ever cut veneer using the Festool and edge guide? Comparison to the Fein jig? Anyone?


 
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Darryl Keil

Posts: 1454

Joined: 2003-05-22
Location: Maine

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Subject : RE: Veneer cutter
Posted : 2005-05-18 10:21 PM
Post #32215 - In reply to #32202
Brian,

I didnt know Festool had a hand tool that could cut veneer. Is it like the Fein Multimaster?

Sincerely
Darryl Keil


 
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Brian Gray

Posts: 339

Joined: 2004-01-21
Location: Sandusky, OH

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Subject : RE: Veneer cutter
Posted : 2005-06-16 9:39 AM
Post #32267 - In reply to #32215
I was going back through the threads and saw that you replied to this, Daryll...sorry I didn't see it back when you responded....

What I'm using is the Festool AFT55 circular saw with the edge guide.

http://www.festoolusa.com/ProductDetails.aspx?id=3&prodid=561086

I didn't think that this would cut veneer well when I first heard of it, but combined with the edge guide, its my favorite....


 
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Charles Tai

Posts: 2

Joined: 2005-05-06
Location: Vancouver

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Subject : RE: Veneer cutter
Posted : 2005-05-17 4:00 PM
Post #32204 - In reply to #32201
I assume you use a jig for your multimaster. Can you describe your jig or post a picture? Thanks.


 
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davetinley

Posts: 12

Joined: 2004-05-20
Location: Central Texas

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Subject : RE: Veneer cutter
Posted : 2005-05-18 9:25 AM
Post #32209 - In reply to #32204
I have been using a straight edge with my Multimaster, and the round hss blade. I believe there are some that have a jig to use with a router but I have not seen it. If some one does have a picture of thid jig, maybe they can post it for us.

Thanks
Dave



 
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Darryl Keil

Posts: 1454

Joined: 2003-05-22
Location: Maine

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Subject : RE: Veneer cutter
Posted : 2005-05-18 10:23 PM
Post #32216 - In reply to #32204
Charles,

Here are a few pictures of the multimaster jig I have used.

Sincerely
Darryl Keil
Attached file : Fein sander1.jpg (24KB - 682 downloads)
Attached file : Fein sander2.jpg (30KB - 567 downloads)
Attached file : Fein sander3.jpg (22KB - 435 downloads)
Attached file : Fein sander4.jpg (17KB - 424 downloads)



 
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ctai

 
Subject : RE: Veneer cutter
Posted : 2005-05-26 3:32 AM
Post #32237 - In reply to #32216
Thanks! I will try it out.


 
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Charles Tai

Posts: 2

Joined: 2005-05-06
Location: Vancouver

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Subject : RE: Veneer cutter
Posted : 2005-05-27 6:20 PM
Post #32239 - In reply to #32216
I gave it a try out of necessity. I could not cut a mahogany crotch with knife or router without tearing. My multimaster did reasonable job...it did not tear. However, it is easier to get a straight line with a router and a router is much faster.


 
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Darryl Keil

Posts: 1454

Joined: 2003-05-22
Location: Maine

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Subject : RE: Veneer cutter
Posted : 2005-05-14 3:12 PM
Post #32203 - In reply to #32191
Dave,

Well, I like the veneer cutter in certain applications and get great results but I wouldn’t promise you that. I find everyone likes different tools for cutting veneer with one person getting great results using one method while another gets a poor joint.

I’m surprised you are not having luck with sandwiching the veneer between two cauls and flush trimming, this is my preferred method. I get the best veneer joints this way.

Sincerely

Darryl Keil




 
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davetinley

Posts: 12

Joined: 2004-05-20
Location: Central Texas

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Subject : RE: Veneer cutter
Posted : 2005-05-18 9:45 AM
Post #32210 - In reply to #32203
Daryl-
I think the main problem with my method is not being able to get the veneer sandwiched tight enough because I notice it fluttering when routing the edges. I have been using a 1/2" down spiral bit.
Could you explain more about your method of sandwiching the veneer ?
Or is it in any of your videos?

Thanks
Dave



 
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Darryl Keil

Posts: 1454

Joined: 2003-05-22
Location: Maine

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Subject : RE: Veneer cutter
Posted : 2005-05-18 10:19 PM
Post #32214 - In reply to #32210
Dave,

I use this jig in the Working with Veneer video. I can also email you some pictures of it. The key is the bowed pressure beams that give the veneer a firm pinch.

Sincerely
Darryl Keil


 
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davetinley

Posts: 12

Joined: 2004-05-20
Location: Central Texas

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Subject : RE: Veneer cutter
Posted : 2005-05-27 9:55 AM
Post #32238 - In reply to #32214
Darryl-
I watched your video last night. Question on your cutting jig. The top part that looks like an upside "T", how did you bow it to make it pinch the veneer? Also, does it have dowels in the ends to line up the top with the base??

Do you have anymore videos coming out?? Its amazing how much you can learn watching someone like you work.
Thanks
Dave



 
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Darryl Keil

Posts: 1454

Joined: 2003-05-22
Location: Maine

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Subject : RE: Veneer cutter
Posted : 2005-05-31 10:57 AM
Post #32240 - In reply to #32238
Dave,

Both the top and bottom "T's" are bowed. I do it on the jointer by resting the center of the beam over the cutter and joining twice, once in each direction. Next I spit the difference from the end to the center of the beam and joint again towards both ends. This gives me a slightly faceted bow which I belt sand to clean up. In general I have a 1/32" bow per foot on both "T's". On a 4' jig when its all put together I end up with about a 1/8" gap on the left and right ends before applying pressure. I do have indexing pins on the ends to make the "T's" line up.

As far as more videos go, I have been thinking about it for years actually. They are unbelievably grueling to make and I need a solid stretch of uninterrupted time to produce one. Hopefully in the next year or two I can block out the time. I have an advanced project one in mind.

Sincerely
Darryl Keil


 
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kilo

 
Subject : RE: Veneer cutter
Posted : 2005-06-26 5:31 AM
Post #32286 - In reply to #32240
squaring up stock for butt joints also assume 90deg angles and straight edges.

my personal favorite for cutting veneer either for sizing or matching is to use a japanese handsaw (an azebiki of very high qualty) to ruough cut the sequence stack underpressure from the template. i follow with up with a shootinh plane--- must be supersharp.

final deviations are accomplished with a knife. not just any knife either. prefrably kawaji laminated blade.

if after all this your bundle still isn't perfect, then using a down-spiral-upsprial cutting bit, using your router tale genly to the final final square off..

helps a lot of rough stuff if they'vr been treated with softener,
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