Darryl Keil Last Activity 2024-10-10 3:42 PM
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Scott

 
Subject : veneering mahogany veneer over solid poplar
Posted : 2005-09-15 10:45 AM
Post #32410

Hello Darryl, Long time customer of yours. I am about to build a federal dresser. It is completely veneered with a mildly tiger striped Mahogany veneer. Due to the cost of solid Mahogany substrate I wanted to place the veneer over solid poplar for the sides and top. They are about 24 inch wide panels. I would put a mahogany balancer veneer on the back sides. My concern is this . This is an heirloom piece of furniture with lots of veneer and inlay. Will the mahogany face veneer crack over time due to the different expansion rates of the wood. (poplar vs mahogany) I hate to veneer over solid mahogany because locally the cost is up to $9 / BF. MDF is not an option due to the design. I once veneered Mahogany over an unknown solid wood. (old furniture restoration) and I got a big crack in the veneer a month later. I did not put on a balance veneer as it was a restoration. I used unibond 800. Thanks Darryl.
Scott


 
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Earl

Posts: 75

Joined: 2003-12-04
Location: Pensacola FL

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Subject : RE: veneering mahogany veneer over solid poplar
Posted : 2005-09-15 2:25 PM
Post #32411 - In reply to #32410

Scott, you should be ok if you crossband under the Mah. In other words make a 5 ply panel. I built a desk with 30" wide sides, used solid poplar substrate and faced with flame birch over mah veneer, 5 ply. No problems yet 10 yrs. old.

I would make up the sub. out of 2-4" wide stock that will help even more.


 
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Scott

 
Subject : RE: veneering mahogany veneer over solid poplar
Posted : 2005-09-15 2:34 PM
Post #32412 - In reply to #32411

Hi Earl. Thanks for your reply, Sounds good to me, the only question I have is that in all of the previous replys from Darryl on similar subjects he recommends not doing the crossband or crossgrain when using solid wood as a substrate. His explanation is that it allows the veneer to move with the substrate. Im just not sure which way to go. I could always just use Mahogany as a substrate to be safe as it moves at the same rate as the mahogany veneer but the dresser would cost me an extra $200 and the nice mahogany wood would be covered or wasted. Scott


 
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Darryl Keil

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Location: Maine

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Subject : RE: veneering mahogany veneer over solid poplar
Posted : 2005-09-16 9:01 AM
Post #32414 - In reply to #32412

Scott,

I'm glad Earl posted to this question before I got to it as his response adds another piece to the picture.

Scott, you are right, I would not suggest you cross band 90 degrees to the poplar before applying the face veneer, yet Earl did it successfully. I believe a hint to Earl's success is right below his name on his post. He lives in Florida.

The poplar will expand and contract underneath the veneer, there is no stopping it. The amount of the movement depends on the yearly change in humidity. This movement is a world of difference between Florida and where I live in Maine. In Florida and Maine, you have pretty much the same levels of humidity in the summer. But in the winter its a completely different story. Yes, you have some heating in Florida but nothing compared to the months of heating in northern climates. I believe Earl's piece would not survive in my house.

Now I don't know where you live Scott but if its in a colder climate like me, now is actually the absolutely worst time to attempt cross banded veneering on top of solid. The reason is, all wood is at is most expanded state right now because its holding all the humidity from the entire summer. As soon as your furnace starts pumps heat the moisture content of your wood will begin to decrease causing shrinkage. If you were determined to cross band in a colder climate I would do it half way between highest and lowest moisture content. Even doing it at low moisture content is better than high. Its my observation that shrinkage wrecks more havoc than expansion.

So my conclusion is this, if you are in a cold climate I would not attempt the cross banding approach. If you must, then wait until about April.

As far as veneering on top of poplar all in the same direction, it wouldn't be my first choice. Because you said the veneer was curly that means its most likely quarter saw which is the most stable cut. I've never found poplar to be all that stable. If you look at older pieces you almost always find the core wood is quarter sawn. If it was me I would veneer on top of quarter sawn mahogany or at least quarter sawn poplar. Again, where you live has bearing on how you approach this. The more extreme your annual climate change the more particular I would be on my substrate. I might also double veneer in the same direction which would insulate your face veneer from the solid core to some extent. Be sure to glue up your solid wood with a rigid glue, not a white or yellow glue. Too much cold creep with these glues, it might telegraph on your face veneer.

Hope this helps.

Sincerely
Darryl Keil

PS Now Earl, please dont tell me you made this piece when you lived in, lets say, northern Wisconson and then moved it to Forida. You'll make me look real bad.


 
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Earl

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Location: Pensacola FL

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Subject : RE: veneering mahogany veneer over solid poplar
Posted : 2005-09-16 11:09 AM
Post #32416 - In reply to #32414

Darryl, you have a very valid point about the relative humidity. Our humidity swings from 100% down to about 45% in the winter. Yes it does get cold here, just not for months at a time. The piece I was talking about is in a home in Brewton AL, pretty close to the same RH as here. But it's in a bedroom with a woodburning fireplace. So I don't think the diff is tremendous.

As for veneering solid wood, I've seen antique grand pianos with rosewood veneer over oak on lids before. And it was run with the grain, still loked great. I think the problem is the poplar, when I did my piece I had no piece of pop over 3" in width, this may be one reason for my success.

If you run the face veneer with the sub grain and the substrate checks and or splits won't the face veneer? I don't think the crossband can totally prevent it from happening but I would like to think it would at the very least minimize it. It did on my "Leaf Table" it has some minor checking in the soft maple, but the checks did not ruin the face rosewood veneer.




 
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Brian Gray

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Joined: 2004-01-21
Location: Sandusky, OH

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Subject : RE: veneering mahogany veneer over solid poplar
Posted : 2005-09-16 8:30 AM
Post #32413 - In reply to #32410

You say that MDF is not an option because of the design.

Can you elaborate on that? If I were you, I'd focus on a solution where you don't have to use a solid substrate...there's gotta be a way. Those are some wide panels there....

Also, reading through your post, it sounds to me like you will trust mahogany to not move in this application, but not trust poplar....I wouldn't trust anything solid that was that wide, regardless of species. My opinion.


 
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Scott Ferrazzani

 
Subject : RE: veneering mahogany veneer over solid poplar
Posted : 2005-09-16 10:20 AM
Post #32415 - In reply to #32413

Thanks Darryl, That was an excellent answer and exactly what I was looking to learn. As for your question Brian. The reason I dont want to use MDF (due to the design) is because it is and exact replica of a federal dresser (bow front) with French feet. 1) First of all the original of course was built out of solid wood. (mahogany as a substrate) and I want to copy it exactly. 2) Second reason being is that you will see the edges of the substrate at the feet cut out and the back of the side panels. You would never see MDF on an antique piece as it didnt exist. 3)Third reason is because the curve or splay in the bottom of the feet is achieved by cutting a slice in the substrate (1/8" from the surface veneer and steaming the wood and inserting a wedge to force the front of the foot out to achieve a flare. (after it is veneered) This was done in solid wood . MDF would just snap and the steam would swell it. It just couldnt be done in MDF.

As for the reason why I say the poplar would cause the veneer to crack and the Mahogany substrate would not, is because the veneer that I am using is of the same species of Mahogany that the substrate is . Therefore the two will expand and contract at the same or more similar rates. (very little) Poplar has a much higher rate of movement than does mahogany. The ratio of tangental to radial movement in Mahogany is low (about a 4 or 5) while the ratio of poplar is much higer (probably around an 8 going from memory and without looking it up) Therefore the poplar substrate is more likely to crack the veneer when it expands or contracts while the mahogany is not. Mahogany is one of the most stable woods. Also I have veneered over solid mahogany with many types of species in many pieces and have never had a crack. Also I live in New Hampshire (close to Darryl) So I have the same changes in humidity he does. Thank you to all for your responses . I think I now know what to do. Use the mahgany substrate at a better time of the year as Darryl said. Scott Ferrazzani


You say that MDF is not an option because of the design.

Can you elaborate on that? If I were you, I'd focus on a solution where you don't have to use a solid substrate...there's gotta be a way. Those are some wide panels there....

Also, reading through your post, it sounds to me like you will trust mahogany to not move in this application, but not trust poplar....I wouldn't trust anything solid that was that wide, regardless of species. My opinion


 
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Darryl Keil

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Subject : RE: veneering mahogany veneer over solid poplar
Posted : 2005-09-16 11:13 AM
Post #32417 - In reply to #32415

Scott,

If you are going to veneer on top of solid mahogany, especially quarter sawn, I dont think you need to wait much until proceeding. Come late October, early November you will be almost half way between maximum and minimum moisture content. With mahogany on mahogany I think you can really do it anytime.

Sincerely
Darryl Keil


 
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Brian Gray

Posts: 339

Joined: 2004-01-21
Location: Sandusky, OH

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Subject : RE: veneering mahogany veneer over solid poplar
Posted : 2005-09-16 12:16 PM
Post #32418 - In reply to #32415

Thanks for the clarification, Scott.

if it's worth anything, I have done some veneering with a core that is part MDF, and part solid.

I needed to reproduce a piece that was an antique. The original was solid wood core. The top was veneered, and the edges were treated with a cove molding, exposing the hardwood edges.

I made my substrate out of MDF, with the last inch of each side being quartersawn solid wood. When the molding was cut, you couldn't tell the difference at all.

It's still stable, and should outlast the original...(I hope)

This is just my 2cents...I hate veneering with solid cores, unless I really have to. And if I have to, the solid is always quartersawn, and not very wide.


 
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Scott Ferrazzani

 
Subject : RE: veneering mahogany veneer over solid poplar
Posted : 2005-09-16 3:44 PM
Post #32419 - In reply to #32418

Thanks for everyones input. Thats a great idea for many applications. I am definately more educated on this. Scott


 
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russ garcia

 
Subject : RE: veneering mahogany veneer over solid poplar
Posted : 2005-09-29 2:34 PM
Post #32440 - In reply to #32419

If you go to museums and check the veneer work the older pieces( 100 + years) are frequently cracked to varying degrees (solid wood substrate), whereas the solid wood pieces(non-veneered) are invariably in good shape with very few cracks if any.


 
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Don Stephan

Posts: 825

Joined: 2003-07-18
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio

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Subject : Re: mahog veneer over poplar
Posted : 2005-09-29 8:32 PM
Post #32441 - In reply to #32440

Another tantilizing aspect of antiques was suggested to me several years ago ... The pieces that cracked, warped, and otherwise failed were discarded years ago. It might be possible to find a piece that contradicts standard practice, but at the same time there might have been another 99 built at exactly the same time and in exactly the same way that failed and became firewood. That one odd piece may in fact be just that - an oddity that should have failed.


 
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Brian Gray

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Joined: 2004-01-21
Location: Sandusky, OH

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Subject : Re: mahog veneer over poplar
Posted : 2005-09-30 7:10 AM
Post #32442 - In reply to #32441

excellent point...never thought of that....


 
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Darryl Keil

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Joined: 2003-05-22
Location: Maine

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Subject : Re: mahog veneer over poplar
Posted : 2005-09-30 3:39 PM
Post #32443 - In reply to #32442

To All,

Earl from Florida contacted me saying he would be willing to make up two samples and send them to me. One would have a solid poplar core the other a quarter sawn mahogany core. Cross banded and a face veneer. I will keep it in my house here in Maine over the winter. This should reveal the worst case scenario going from Florida to Maine over a heated winter.

Stay tuned for a report next year.

Sincerely
Darryl Keil


 
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Brian Gray

Posts: 339

Joined: 2004-01-21
Location: Sandusky, OH

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Subject : Re: mahog veneer over poplar
Posted : 2005-09-30 5:33 PM
Post #32446 - In reply to #32443

that sounds really cool...be sure to take pics...


 
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Don Stephan

Posts: 825

Joined: 2003-07-18
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio

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Subject : Re: mahog veneer over poplar
Posted : 2011-07-16 6:33 PM
Post #36428 - In reply to #32443

Is it too late to ask for a report on the samples?


 
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craig tufankjian

Posts: 308

Joined: 2004-02-01
Location: syracuse ny 13208

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Subject : Re: mahog veneer over poplar
Posted : 2011-07-16 7:11 PM
Post #36430 - In reply to #36428

I think its safe to say the the samples have vanished....original post was 2005


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