Darryl Keil Last Activity 2024-10-10 3:42 PM
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Darryl Keil

Posts: 1453

Joined: 2003-05-22
Location: Maine

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Subject : I got it
Posted : 2008-08-07 9:27 PM
Post #34804
Over the weekend I finally went out and got the Festool saw.

Got back and first tested two pieces of backer grade mahogany, absolutely perfect cut.

Next I found some burl, cut four pieces, another perfect cut.

Then I looked around for some badly wavy stuff to see how it would handle that since there really isn't any aggressive down pressure. I realized any badly buckled stuff I would flatten first so I found some mildly wavy madrone burl, once again a perfect cut.

On the other side of this madrone burl was some fragile grain so I tried that. Did get some very small chip out on the top piece. Tried it again taking an additional 1/16" off, still a few small chips on the top piece. I then put a sacrificial veneer on top and did it again. This time a perfect cut with no chip out.

I must say I'm impressed, what a finely crafted tool and a real pleasure to use. I do wonder how it would do on a 12 way walnut burl radial match with a little bit of wave. Might need the pinch of the router jig for that one, cant say for sure.

My assessment is that it would do 90% of all my veneer trimming. I think a few veneers here and there would need another method but at 90% its well worth the cost. When I have more time I'll put it through some more paces.

Do others find the need for a sacrificial top piece? What about a 12 way radial cut? Veneers it has trouble with?

Darryl Keil




 
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Brian Gray

Posts: 339

Joined: 2004-01-21
Location: Sandusky, OH

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Subject : RE: I got it
Posted : 2008-08-07 9:46 PM
Post #34805 - In reply to #34804
Allelu!

Glad to hear that you are happy with it.

You might want to try the fine tooth blade if you are not using it.

Also, I haven't tried it yet, but I've been told that reversing the blade gives an even cleaner cut.

I've never had the need for a sacrificial top veneer, and I've never found a veneer that it would handle.

I have done radial matches with it. Not with wavy stuff, however...I flatten first.

Congrats!




 
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Don Stephan

Posts: 825

Joined: 2003-07-18
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio

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Subject : RE: I got it
Posted : 2008-08-07 9:47 PM
Post #34806 - In reply to #34804
No doubt SHMBO got to spend an equal amount - what did she get, a new car?

Sacrificial top veneer is a nice idea, never crossed my mind but then only had trouble once with some wenge chipout and second pass was perfectamundo.

Wish someone would want a radial match tabletop. Would you like to order one Darryl so I could think about using Uncle Festus for that? I'd probably continue using plexi templates and cut one at a time though. Slow learner, getting older, . . .

If Brian Gray chimes in with recommendation to get some Florida swampland, do we have you appropriately conditioned that you'll jump on that too?

With time, you'll find additional "how the heck am I going to make this cut" uses for Festus. Neighbor borrowed mine when he needed to cut a tilt-up 10" x 14" access into the side of an old panel, and said the drop down blade cut absolutely chip free, the guide track saved a lot of time and worry over clamping guide cleats, and thought it was great that I let him borrow mine (for a lunch) instead of having to buy his own. He even stopped calling me names for a couple weeks.




 
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Jeff Patrick


Joined: 2004-04-15
Location: Bainbridge Island, WA

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Subject : RE: I got it
Posted : 2008-08-08 8:27 PM
Post #34810 - In reply to #34804
It's not just good for trimming loose veneer. I like to do case pieces with the top edges mitered at 45º. This can be a formidable task on anything of size when cutting on the tablesaw. But with the festool it has become simple. After messing with the 45º stop on the saw to get it dialed in just right it is an easy task to crosscut the already veneered top and sides. I've had zero chip out doing this and the miters are perfect. The saw lays over to the miter position and is still in line with the rubber hold down strip. When put back to normal position it remains so. It's simply amazing. I've been doing this stuff way to long to be in love with tools but I have to say that I like my festool a lot.

One thing to watch out for. I've found that after using the blade for general plywood cutting, it looses its keen edge. So I bought a replacement blade just for the fine work and use the other for normal cutting. That blade still cuts very well, just not quite as good as new.


 
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Steven Kenzer

Posts: 57

Joined: 2008-07-16
Location: Putney, VT

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Subject : RE: I got it
Posted : 2008-08-11 7:48 AM
Post #34824 - In reply to #34804
As I said in an earlier post, I too am very impressed with the quality and abilities of this tool. I've continued using it on a current job with perfection each time. I also pulled out various species of veneers for experimentation, and have had no issues whatsoever. However, I haven't tried any seriously buckled or radial match layouts. The idea of reversing the blade would be no different then pulling the saw to cut as opposed to pushing. This enables the blade to cut on the down stroke, eliminating any top chipping. In theory, the rubber mat is supposed to eliminate chipping from upstroke cutting on a push stroke. Right now, I'm using the 55" fence. I'm curious, has anyone linked 2 of these together? Are the results perfectly straight or would it be preferred to purchase the 8' fence for longer joints/cuts? My gut tells me linking 2 together would be fine, considering the attention to detail this company offers. I also purchased the Domino Joiner by Festool recently to handle certain job situations and am pretty blown away by this tool, as well. I have to say that this company has pushed the envelope on portable tool design, in terms of innovation and quality, far greater then any other company I know. Yes, these tools are expensive comparatively speaking, but in my opinion, worth every penny and then some.


 
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texasthunderwoodwork

Posts: 25

Joined: 2007-10-31
Location: Central Texas

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Subject : QSWO
Posted : 2008-08-11 11:28 PM
Post #34827 - In reply to #34824
Have any of you folks tried cutting QSWO veneer.
I cannot get a clean cut on that stuff. I have three blades, one rough cut and two fine cut, and I keep one of the fine cut just for veneer.
It seems to cut all others that I have tried ok, just not QSWO.

Also- Are y'all using the plastic splinterguards that mounts to the saw?
I seem to have gotten better cuts with out it, but then it could be the 103 degree Texas sun.............


 
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BigRob777

Posts: 142

Joined: 2008-05-26
Location: Newark, DE

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Subject : Festool
Posted : 2008-08-11 11:39 PM
Post #34828 - In reply to #34827
Well, you folks have convinced me. I was going to buy a wide drum sander next, but I think this festool will have to be next instead. Not just for veneer, but for my furniture building.
Rob


 
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Jeff Patrick


Joined: 2004-04-15
Location: Bainbridge Island, WA

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Subject : RE: QSWO
Posted : 2008-08-13 7:42 PM
Post #34839 - In reply to #34827
I haven't cut white oak but I just did a large project in european chestnut, some of which was qtr. sawn. Those two woods are similar. The results were very good... some chip out but nothing to worry about and still less than I ever got using the router.


 
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Jack Clark

Posts: 3

Joined: 2011-06-12
Location: Northern California

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Subject : RE: QSWO
Posted : 2011-06-20 10:32 AM
Post #36399 - In reply to #34827
Just starting a kitchen cabinet project using a lot of rift sawn oak in the door panels, and I am seriously considering the purchase of a Festool TS 55 track saw for jointing the raw veneer. During my initial testing for jointing two pieces of the RS oak, I got a lot of tearout using a trim router equipped with a downshear, bottom bearing trim bit. The two pieces of veneer were sandwiched tightly in a baltic birch jig. After reading the good reviews on this forum about using the Festool plunge saw for cutting and jointing veneer, I ran out into my garage and immediately tried the technique using my EZ track saw system. The results were much better, but not perfect. Blue tape and cutting backwards improved the results a bit more.

But my EZ stuff (Porter Cable framing saw with a Freud 7-1/4" 40 tooth blade) does not have the same caliber of precision as the Festool system. For example, it's difficult to adjust the tiny depth of cut, necessary for this type of work, with repeatable accuracy.

I'm hoping that some folks who have jointed rift cut or quarter sawn oak with the Festool saw can chime in here with what they have experienced. I'd be real curious to know what blade works the best for this method.

Thanks.



 
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Darryl Keil

Posts: 1453

Joined: 2003-05-22
Location: Maine

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Subject : RE: QSWO
Posted : 2011-06-20 7:32 PM
Post #36404 - In reply to #36399
Jack,

I would say the Festool TS55 would work great for oak veneer. I'm actually surprised you didn't have good results with the router technique. Oak veneer is not that difficult to work with, especially compared to a lot of other veneers.

As far as I'm concerned this saw is very useful for many other tasks as well. You wont be unhappy getting one, except for the price tag. Well worth it thought.

Darryl Keil


 
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Jack Clark

Posts: 3

Joined: 2011-06-12
Location: Northern California

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Subject : RE: QSWO
Posted : 2011-06-20 8:46 PM
Post #36406 - In reply to #36404
Darryl,

Thanks for your comments.

I got some tearout almost everytime I've tried to joint two pieces of rift sawn oak using the router. For a nice seam, wouldn't zero tearout would be the order of the day? Tried the sanding block technique too, but was underwhelmed. Maybe my jig is inadequate. Also, the humidity here has been very low lately (around 20 percent). Perhaps that is a contributing factor.

At any rate, I'm well aware of all the other uses of a good track saw. I've been wanting a Festool for some time now, and when I found out that it may be the cat's meow for jointing raw veneer--well...


 
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Enrico Konig

Posts: 74

Joined: 2006-01-06
Location: Vancouver, BC

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Subject : RE: I got it
Posted : 2008-08-12 12:42 AM
Post #34829 - In reply to #34824
Linking 2 fences together isn't so great. The joint is noticeable when going over it with the saw, which makes it noticeable on the cut. Sometimes worse, sometimes better.
And make sure you purchase a fence long enough that you have about 5 inches extra on each end. For example, for a 96" cut you'll want the 106" fence.


 
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mike mcnerney

Posts: 87

Joined: 2003-07-17
Location: ottawa ontario

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Subject : RE: I got it
Posted : 2011-06-20 6:58 PM
Post #36401 - In reply to #34829
I'm curious what kind of blade is on these saws & the speed.
I have been getting really good results on my TS with a 10" 80tth atb. with a setup that clamps it all down and runs through the mitre slot.
Also what is the kerf size. How many sheets can you do?
Mike Mcnerney


 
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Jack Clark

Posts: 3

Joined: 2011-06-12
Location: Northern California

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Subject : RE: I got it
Posted : 2011-06-20 8:35 PM
Post #36405 - In reply to #36401
Hi Mike,

Could you describe your "setup that clamps it all down...?"

Thanks
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