Darryl Keil Last Activity 2025-09-09 11:09 AM
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Paul Kierstead

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Joined: 2008-01-24
Location: Ottawa, ON

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Subject : Tips on using Festool to joint?
Posted : 2008-03-18 5:34 PM
Post #34440
After fighting with my TS on too many times for dealing with sheet goods, I've gone off my rocker and ordered a 55 circular saw. I see some of you use it to joint veneer. Currently I am using a jig kind of based on the one Darryl shows in his video (though in my case the jig moves on the router table) but am interested in using using the saw (with the guide, of course). Any particular tips you have found for optimal results? How many sheets at a time, holding them togather, etc...


 
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Don Stephan

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Location: Cincinnati, Ohio

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Subject : RE: Tips on using Festool to joint?
Posted : 2008-03-20 9:39 PM
Post #34447 - In reply to #34440
I've used Uncle Festus' saw and guide several times with great results. I've not tried turning the blade backwards, or running the saw backwards, but I understand one or both gives even better results.

Eight sheets is probably the most I've trimmed this way in one packet, simply because that was the total number, four was probably the least. I simply taped the packet together tightly with strips of blue masking tape every foot or so, placed on a piece of plywood a few inches longer than the guide, laid the guide on top to trim about 3/32", and made the cut with the blade depth limited to about 1/4" below the bottom sheet of veneer. I probably lower the blade to full depth before reaching the veneeer, then run it fully beyond the veneer before turning off and raising.

Flat cut maple veneer was perfect the first time. Wenge, which seems brittle and chip-prone, I had to cut a 2nd time, maybe a 3rd before it was perfect.

It really was as simple as can be . . . After using a "Keil" routing jig several times with generally good results, sometimes having to climb cut for better results, the Festool saw and guide I think was a good investment. At the risk of falling onto Darryl's *&^% list (maybe I'm already there!), the Keil routing jig didn't come along when I moved this winter.


 
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Paul Kierstead

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Subject : RE: Tips on using Festool to joint?
Posted : 2008-03-21 3:57 PM
Post #34448 - In reply to #34447
Thanks, Don, those are good pointers! The saw showed up sans guide, so it will be mid-next week before I get to have a swing at it. You say the least you have done is 4 sheets, so I take it you have never tried something like trimming taped up veneer with the saw? (Typically would be only one or two sheets).

When you did it multiple times, did you just take less material, or otherwise change your procedure? I think I'll keep my Keil jig for a bit I always climb cut with it.


 
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Don Stephan

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Location: Cincinnati, Ohio

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Subject : RE: Tips on using Festool to joint?
Posted : 2008-03-21 7:39 PM
Post #34450 - In reply to #34448
I don't think I've tried less than 4 sheets, but I wouldn't expect any problems with fewer sheets, and I wouldn't set up any differently.

In every case, I was bookmatching or slip matching a pair of sheets for each side of a display stand, and had several inches of excess on the outside margins.

In every case, I looked at the trimmed edges before breaking apart the packet of sheets. When I saw some chipping with the wenge, I simply placed the packet under the guide again and trimmed off another strong sixteenth or so; don't think I bothered re-taping the previously trimmed edge with more blue masking tape. I was counting on the blue tape simply to keep the sheets from slipping relative to each other, and the saw guide to "clamp" the edge to be trimmed.

I kept my routing jig for probably 18 months after getting Festus and his trusty guide sidekick, but never used the routing jig again.

I think you'll be pleased as punch, and the saw and guide can be used just as easily to break down sheet goods if you are so inclined, and is a quick and easy way to square up a partial or whole sheet .


 
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Brian Gray

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Joined: 2004-01-21
Location: Sandusky, OH

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Subject : RE: Tips on using Festool to joint?
Posted : 2008-03-21 11:06 PM
Post #34451 - In reply to #34450
//The saw showed up sans guide//

Hey Paul.

If you have been using this sans guide, than you have yet to truly experience how this can really eliminate chipout.

Try it with the guide and report back.

I have used the saw and guide with 12 and more sheets at a time (nice and flat sheets...no rippled veneer). If you push a bit to flatten everything real nice, you can get a very clean cut.

If you get real thick with lots and lots of sheets, then you can lose the perfect 90 degree cut.

I wouldn't set up a 16 piece radial match and expect to cut it in one shot, but it's going to get you close and then trim.


 
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Paul Kierstead

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Subject : RE: Tips on using Festool to joint?
Posted : 2008-03-21 11:43 PM
Post #34452 - In reply to #34451
I haven't even fired it up yet; I am waiting to sort out the guide. Have some sheet goods to break down as well ... but didn't figure I would see anything approaching its full potential without the zero clearance guide.


 
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ckurak

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Joined: 2006-10-28
Location: Florida

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Subject : RE: Tips on using Festool to joint?
Posted : 2008-03-22 7:27 PM
Post #34453 - In reply to #34452
Paul,

When you get the guide, slide the saw back and forth a few times on the slide to get the feel of it (with the power off). Then, apply some paste wax (I use Johnson's) to the top of the guide and the bottom of the saw. Try sliding it again. It will feel like a new saw. Yes, even newer than fresh out of the box.

Also, in Paul Schürch's second DVD, "Marquetry, Volume 2", he talks about AND demonstrates how he uses his Festool saw to cut a long veneer packet.

Enjoy your new tool,

Charles

PS: Read the instructions and trim the zero clearance rubber strip before cutting anything. CK


 
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Don Stephan

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Subject : RE: Tips on using Festool to joint?
Posted : 2008-03-24 7:24 PM
Post #34454 - In reply to #34452
If its not too late, and there's still a couple pennies (Okay, hundred dollar bills) in the kitty, rush out and see if you can get a discount for purchasing the Festool shop vac as well. Use it with any brand of ROS or belt sander (if you can cobble up the necessary adapters) and there literally is almost no dust whatsoever.

Forgot to hook it up to the Festool saw this afternoon when I cut one end of a hard maple table top and there was sawdust everywhere. Remembered it for the other end and I could see the few grains of sawdust that did NOT get caught by the vacuum.

Checked the blade this afternoon and I'm using a 48 tooth blade, perhaps an ATB? A couple minutes on each end with a LN low angle block plane and they were ready for 220 grit hand sanding.


 
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Paul Kierstead

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Location: Ottawa, ON

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Subject : RE: Tips on using Festool to joint?
Posted : 2008-03-26 11:25 AM
Post #34456 - In reply to #34454
If its not too late, and there's still a couple pennies (Okay, hundred dollar bills) in the kitty, rush out and see if you can get a discount for purchasing the Festool shop vac as well.


I already have a Festool ROS (150/3) and vac (both of which have pleased me to no end). That is how this whole trap started! The rail is in, hopefully tonight I can give it a whirl.


 
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Brian Gray

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Subject : RE: Tips on using Festool to joint?
Posted : 2008-03-27 11:09 AM
Post #34457 - In reply to #34456
Be sure to report back, Paul.

I'd like to know your impressions.


 
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Paul Kierstead

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Joined: 2008-01-24
Location: Ottawa, ON

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Subject : RE: Tips on using Festool to joint?
Posted : 2008-04-01 9:02 AM
Post #34464 - In reply to #34457
Well, I kinda ran out of veneer (have no idea where I went wrong, but willing to guess I forgot to double the square footage ...) but while I am waiting, I decided to make a test panel from a beech bundle I happened to have around. This beech is very very dry (kind of brittle actually) and a bit wavy. I started by jointing 6 sheets in one go. First lesson: When the guide is long (1400mm) and you are just doing 24" sheets of veneer, you gotta be careful of rocking the guide on the veneer. I got a little chip out on some sheets. I re-did those ones, having to do a couple a third time. I think this was clearly user error; once I started to be more careful to push down a bit things improved considerably. I taped and glued them up and put them in the bag. The results were fantastic; about as good as one could ask for really. The only real trick is keeping the veneer under some pressure, especially when it is wavy. This makes perfect sense; one of the commercial trimmers I used was essentially a circular saw attached to a pneumatic press, and it works extremely well (in my observation). I also used the saw to break down some sheet goods (not practical for me previously) and I couldn't believe how good it was; about the only issue was controlling the cord/hose, and something like the boom could take care of that (I'll rig something off the ceiling...). BTW, I used pink foam underneath; for a veneer that needs flattened a little, that may not have been the best choice.

I might get a shorter guide for working on the bench and make up a little clamping platform so the guide can be clamped down instead of just sitting on top. I need to give that some thought, after I have used the system for a while.


 
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Howard

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Joined: 2007-01-15

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Subject : RE: Tips on using Festool to joint?
Posted : 2008-04-05 10:44 PM
Post #34482 - In reply to #34464
I got some tearout when cutting brittle burl this way. Then I put veneer tape on the burl where the cut was going to go and it came out fine.

I also use 2 1/4 –20 hex head bolts that go from the slot in the guide through holes in my bench to press the guide against the veneer. The veneer pack is between the bolts and I put spacers the thickness of the veneer and backer boards on the other side of the bolts to prevent bending the guide. Works great.

Howard
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