Darryl Keil Last Activity 2025-02-12 2:48 PM
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Ken Thayer

Posts: 12

Joined: 2010-04-13

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Subject : I'm a newbee
Posted : 2010-05-18 5:23 PM
Post #36026

Watching your DVD raises a couple questions. First of all, you recommend taking the masking tape off immediately after putting on the veneer tape. I notice that the veneer tape is rather wet at that point and seems fragile. Also, can I veneer my panel oversized and trim it on my table saw later without it chipping the veneer? I started with a small panel that has no real purpose so if I mess it up it won't kill me.


 
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Don Stephan

Posts: 825

Joined: 2003-07-18
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio

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Subject : RE: I'm a newbee
Posted : 2010-05-19 7:50 PM
Post #36027 - In reply to #36026

Ken:
Blue masking tape generally comes off very cleanly, even if it's been on the glue side of the veneer for a couple days. After applying the veneer tape, I'll put the sheet on a smooth wooden surface with smooth cover piece, even 1/4" MDF, to help hold the sheet flat until the tape dries. So I'll wait at least an hour before removing the blue tape, but more often until I'm ready to mix the glue and press.

You can sandwich a veneer sheet or panel between two pieces of plywood or MDF and trim on the table saw, but I just use a straightedge and a veneer saw, utility knife, or something similar to trim slightly oversize. After glued to a substrate and cured at least overnight I'll trim the result on the table saw. Hope that helps.


 
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Enrico Konig

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Joined: 2006-01-06
Location: Vancouver, BC

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Subject : RE: I'm a newbee
Posted : 2010-05-19 8:14 PM
Post #36028 - In reply to #36026

You can do it either way, either by cutting the veneer just very slightly oversize and gluing it to a panel already cut to size beforehand, and then carefully trimming the veneer edge back afterward. Or you can, as you ask, make the whole thing oversize and trim it down after glued. When possible, I prefer the latter, as then I can sand the panel with a rotary sander without worrying about cutting through edges and corners, where it's the most prone to happen. The feathered edges are just trimmed off.

There are many factors as to whether the veneer will chip or not. The ones I can think of right now: the sharpness and appropriateness of the saw blade, the specie of wood and the type of figure, whether you're cutting cross-grain or with the grain. Some woods are very prone to chipping, whether in veneer form or not. The back side of the panel can be particularly challenging to get a clean cut on, especially on cuts across the grain. Blue masking tape on the back side can help, and sometimes even will help on the face side if it's proving problematic there as well. With particularly ornery stuff, re-applying veneer tape where the cut is going to be(especially on the backside)can be useful too.

I always try a test cut on the outside of the cut line to see if that particular veneer/panel is going to be problematic.

Good luck.


 
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Darryl Keil

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Location: Maine

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Subject : RE: I'm a newbee
Posted : 2010-05-19 8:19 PM
Post #36029 - In reply to #36026

Ken,

I think Don pretty well covered it but I'll add this. The main reason I take of masking tape right away, not that you need to, is so I dont forget later and accidentally glue it down between the veneer and substrate. This habit of taking it off promptly is a good habit for me. I find the veneer tape holds the veneer tight very quickly even though its still wet.

As far as cutting the oversized panel afterwards, the key for me is the right blade. I like an alternate top bevel 80 tooth carbide tipped blade.

Darryl Keil


 
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Ken Thayer

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Joined: 2010-04-13

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Subject : RE: I'm a newbee
Posted : 2010-05-20 12:26 PM
Post #36031 - In reply to #36029

Thanks a lot guys. I thought of a tip I read recently also. Do a scoring cut on the lower side before making the final cut. That should help keep the bottom side from chipping out. I'll try all these things and report back.


 
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Ken Thayer

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Subject : RE: I'm a newbee
Posted : 2010-05-20 5:48 PM
Post #36032 - In reply to #36031

Both the tape idea and scoring it worked pretty well at keeping the bottom veneer from chipping up. I used an 80 tooth blade (Delta) and tried both methods making both rip cuts with the grain and cross cuts. Thanks again.


 
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Don Stephan

Posts: 825

Joined: 2003-07-18
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio

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Subject : RE: I'm a newbee
Posted : 2010-05-20 6:47 PM
Post #36034 - In reply to #36029

Yep, I managed to test glue adhesion to blue tape once . . .


 
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BigRob777

Posts: 142

Joined: 2008-05-26
Location: Newark, DE

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Subject : RE: I'm a newbee
Posted : 2010-05-21 5:43 AM
Post #36035 - In reply to #36034

I've always been the "chip-out King", until I got my Festool plunge-cut (track saw). Using the stock blade on the TS 55, I've reduced even bottom edge roughness. I haven't tried it on just veneer yet though.
Rob


 
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Gary H Phillips

Posts: 46

Joined: 2007-05-06
Location: Seekonk, MA

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Subject : RE: I'm a newbee
Posted : 2010-05-24 6:00 AM
Post #36040 - In reply to #36035

you might even consider a Forrest WW-II blade. We use them for just about everything in the shop that is wood only and even though the Altendorf has a scoring blade, we don't use it all that much for veneer plywood as it doesn't chip.


 
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Ken Thayer

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Subject : RE: I'm a newbee
Posted : 2010-05-31 9:25 AM
Post #36049 - In reply to #36040

I got a little miffed at Forest. I bought a WW-2 blade and when it was only a couple months old, I noticed that one of the carbide teeth was missing. Fortunately, it wasn't embedded in me anywhere! I don't saw anything with nails so I'm not sure how it happened. Forrest wouldn't warrant it. They would repair it for a fee. Haven't bought one since.


 
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Gary H Phillips

Posts: 46

Joined: 2007-05-06
Location: Seekonk, MA

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Subject : RE: I'm a newbee
Posted : 2010-06-13 11:45 AM
Post #36066 - In reply to #36049

That is odd that they felt that way. Did you check it when you bought it? I've had nothing but great results with Forrest and have for almost 20 years!


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