Darryl Keil Last Activity 2025-05-12 11:03 AM
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Jim Ritch

Posts: 16

Joined: 2010-06-25
Location: Dahlonega, GA

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Subject : More on Edges
Posted : 2011-02-11 8:08 AM
Post #36275
I am building a mahogany coffee table and in addition to veneering the top I would like to veneer the aprons and legs. My questions concern the edges.

1. The legs will be a simple four sided taper. How do I handle the sharp edges on the four corners of the legs? Am I limited to merely a light sanding of the edges? Is there a way of having a slight round over of the edges with veneer?

2. How do I keep the veneer from chipping at the bottom of the leg where it meets the floor? Invariably someone is going to slide the table across the rug.

3. The top will be mahogany crotch banded with plain mahogany. After reading the forum topic, Edges, Veneered and Solid, I am still not clear about the edge treatment. Must the edge be in solid mahogany or is there a way to use veneer over a routed edge (roundover or some other routed profile)? I often see pieces with satinwood banding that appear to have a routed profile on the edge of the satinwood. Is that profile in solid satinwood?

I realize these are basic concepts for most of you but I'm an old guy trying to learn a new skill, so thank you for any advice. This forum has been a great source of information for me.



 
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mike mcnerney

Posts: 87

Joined: 2003-07-17
Location: ottawa ontario

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Subject : RE: More on Edges
Posted : 2011-02-11 1:55 PM
Post #36276 - In reply to #36275
1. I haven't done it, but you might be able to inlay say a 1/4" x 1/4"
piece of solid at the corners & route after the veneer is glued up. A lot of fussing though. How about veneering over a cheaper solid wood. If the legs are average hog I'd say use solid hog.
2. bevel at 45 de. & put a glide on. Recently I had a similar situation & I glued a 1/8" piece of solid of a similar colour & beveled.
3. In Daryls advanced video he illustrate how to veneer a round over. The classic way is to put a piece of solid say 3/4" x 1" to the substrate & flush it up. Then veneer the top & route your edge; usually with a 1/8" step & then radius or ogee.
good luck
Mike McNerney


 
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Jim Ritch

Posts: 16

Joined: 2010-06-25
Location: Dahlonega, GA

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Subject : RE: More on Edges
Posted : 2011-02-12 6:37 AM
Post #36278 - In reply to #36276
Mike, thanks for your quick reply.

1. I intend to make the legs out of poplar and the thought of inlaying four corners of four legs with mahogany is, as you said, a lot of fussing just to get a round over on the edges. I suppose I could just go with solid mahogany for the legs but part of my motivation is to gain some veneering skills. I may just have to yield to practicality and buy some 8/4 mahogany for the legs.

2. I do like your idea of simply attaching a beveled 1/8" piece on the bottom of each leg to protect the fragile veneer. Simple and effective.

3. It's looking more and more like I will stick to using a solid piece of mahogany glued to the outer edge and rout my profile in it.



 
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craig tufankjian

Posts: 308

Joined: 2004-02-01
Location: syracuse ny 13208

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Subject : RE: More on Edges
Posted : 2011-02-11 3:56 PM
Post #36277 - In reply to #36275
I always veneer the bottom of any leg last, and add a 1/4 plastic glide on the bottom.

as for an veneer edge treatment you are limited when it comes to veneering a routed edge to a few profiles, convex,concave and taper are the norm. The photos attaches show options for veneering a concave edge.

first the clamping caul is nothing more than pvc schedule 80 conduit. if you route a 1/2 in concave route the conduit should be 1 inch O.D and so on for larger or smaller. 3/4 conduit for a 3/8 route ect.....

The trick however is to veneer the entire edge while it is still flat then route the profile and veneer that. prior to routing the profile you will need a cutting gauge, similar to a marking gauge but a cutting gauge has a sharp knife instead of a point. determine the over all depth of the route and set the cutting gauge to that depth. then score the veneer around the perimeter, then route the profile. Scoring the veneer will eliminate and tear-out in the veneer from routing.

the same process can be used for round tables or oval. the pvc can be heated and shaped to match your radius, it doesn't have to be exact but at least close. veneering the edge will have to be done in segments and the veneer will have to be cut in a circular pattern. you can't take straight cuts of veneer and try to glue and clamp it to a radiused concave route.

http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg28/customone/Picture5-2.png
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg28/customone/Picture10-2.png



 
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Jim Ritch

Posts: 16

Joined: 2010-06-25
Location: Dahlonega, GA

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Subject : RE: More on Edges
Posted : 2011-02-12 6:38 AM
Post #36279 - In reply to #36277
Craig, very impressive process of veneering a routed edge. The use of PVC conduit for a caul is ingenious. The photos really helped my understanding. It is obvious that you are light years ahead of me in your veneering skills. In view of my limited experience with veneering, I don't think I will try this method on my table. I would hate to ruin the mahogany crotch top. However, I will certainly try the technique on some scrap and see if I can perfect it. Thank you for an informative reply.


 
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mike mcnerney

Posts: 87

Joined: 2003-07-17
Location: ottawa ontario

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Subject : RE: More on Edges
Posted : 2011-02-12 9:55 AM
Post #36280 - In reply to #36277
Craig,
How do you click on those links you gave?
MM


 
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craig tufankjian

Posts: 308

Joined: 2004-02-01
Location: syracuse ny 13208

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Subject : RE: More on Edges
Posted : 2011-02-12 10:34 AM
Post #36281 - In reply to #36280
Mike,

"drag and drop" it in your browser search area.


 
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Steven Kenzer

Posts: 57

Joined: 2008-07-16
Location: Putney, VT

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Subject : RE: More on Edges
Posted : 2011-02-19 11:10 AM
Post #36286 - In reply to #36281
Craig....I'm curious as to how you clamp the pvc tube to the concave edge properly to get decent pressure at the surface? Thanks in advance.


 
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craig tufankjian

Posts: 308

Joined: 2004-02-01
Location: syracuse ny 13208

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Subject : RE: More on Edges
Posted : 2011-02-21 3:43 PM
Post #36288 - In reply to #36286
Steve,

Depending on the hierarchy of how you veneer will determine the approach. If you veneer the edges first then you would screw a board on the bottom of the table top so the clamp has something to bite.

If the top and bottom are veneered already, then you would C-clamp the board on at 6 to 8 inch intervals, again so the clamps have something to bite.


 
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Steven Kenzer

Posts: 57

Joined: 2008-07-16
Location: Putney, VT

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Subject : RE: More on Edges
Posted : 2011-02-21 7:45 PM
Post #36289 - In reply to #36288
Got it..thanks. For some reason, my brain was headed towards using strap/web clamps. Another possibility perhaps would be to rub glue blocks on the bottom surface with brown paper between each. Titebond works fine as long as you give it enough set time. I use this technique on long carcase miter joints (one triangle block opposing the other) and has always worked well for me. Once completed, the blocks get tapped off with a hammer, leaving just the residue of the paper behind. That's easily scraped and sanded off. That would work on either the veneered surface or the raw.
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